Firstly, sorry that it's been so long since my last post, and without any warning. As you can probably imagine, things got quite busy with the end of the Princeton in Munich program and my subsequent travel and adjustment to a new locale, but I've finally started to settle in here and can resume what is now more of a reminiscence than a chronicle.
After two weeks of class we had a long weekend on account of Pentecost - Monday was a national holiday. To take advantage of this we had the opportunity to travel to Berlin for three days, and as has happened again and again, Papa Princeton was able to help us out by paying for our hostel stay, meaning that we only had to pay for the cross-country ticket. We traveled there using the fastest train in Germany, the ICE, and crossed the entire country in only six hours. The ticket cost 160€ - that's about $225, but not bad for crossing the entire country. After all, it's a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity!
Friday the tenth was the day of our first test in class. Despite having gotten to bed rather later than usual the night before, I was up at 5AM so that I would have enough time for everything before heading off to class, as we were leaving for Berlin in the afternoon and there were several chores (most notably laundry) that needed to be done before that. I had really tried to think ahead by trying to do laundry on Thursday morning, but was foiled by the fact that someone stole the detergent that I had been planning to share with a classmate. I had been warned that the laundry was quite complicated but didn't find the array of buttons, switches and lights TOO terribly bewildering. The only confusing thing was that the display would say something like "24" and one assumed that that was the time left in the wash cycle, when really it was the time left in that PART of the wash cycle. I never figured out how long the entire wash cycle was, I just knew it consisted of many parts and took more than an hour total. I tried to be as efficient with my time as possible and do other necessary things like make my breakfast while my laundry was running, which turned out to be less efficient than I hoped because of the confusion with cycle time remaining. I think someone must have opened the door on one of my loads before it was done the spin cycle because when I finally found it finished, my darks were soaking wet. Not sure how to activate only the spin cycle, I tossed them all in the (equally complicated) dryer regardless and set it for as long as I could figure out, about two hours. Unfortunately because of the thwarted spin cycle even this wasn't enough (when usually 45-60 minutes will suffice, even for jeans...) and I was forced to leave my laundry in the dryer when I left for class. This of course didn't help my anxiety level or test preparedness, and I was understandably nervous for the test because I had no idea what to expect. Sure enough I hadn't studied the right things and had a frightfully difficult time with the vocabulary (which is always the most difficult part for me even with my good memory, just because flashcards, which are my preferred method of vocabulary memorization, are so tedious), but still managed to come out of the test with a A- (barely, I assure you). This sounds quite good until you realize that the scale only goes down to a B- (50% being a B=).
After class I called Hannes and tracked him and Mareike down in a nearby cafe where they had hidden to work on the Berlin schedule. We discussed the possibilities of my travel to and from Clausthal (for example, I wanted to avoid having to book a hostel in Munich the last night if at all possible, and wanted to make sure I didn't get into Clausthal too late) and decided on the best options for me, but he was much too busy to come with me to the Hauptbahnhof to help me buy my ticket. This made me quite nervous as I was sure I would mess something up, but he was confident in my ability and sent me off with a pat on the back and an encouraging smile. Sure enough I stumbled through the transaction and came away with a ticket to and from Clausthal-Zellerfeld as well as a railway discount card that would get me 25% off any ticket for the summer... but still managed to bungle it. I told the lady I would only be staying in Germany for two more months, so she made the discount card valid for two months... the 10th of June until the 9th of August. Unfortunately I'm not leaving Germany until the 21st of August... let's hope this doesn't mess anything up too badly... :P
Returning to the Wohnheim, I packed my carry-on suitcase for Berlin (and even then it wasn't nearly full) and still had plenty of time to catch up on some emails. This was an especially good day for me in this regard as I had received no less than THREE emails from good friends and was ecstatic to read them all several times over to soak in the news and familiar writing styles from home. It really made me miss people, and be thankful for the magic of the internet that lets us be so close, even when we are so far away. The last thing I did before heading off to meet the group was cook my supper of ravioli (pasta has become a common theme in my meals, as it is both easy and cheap).
Getting to the Hauptbahnhof went smoothly and we got there in plenty of time. The only snag came when we actually boarded the train and found that the block of seats that we had reserved were not marked as such by some technical glitch and many already had occupants which Professor Rankin was so kind as to take the responsibility to gently but firmly evict. I ended up with a window seat on the west side of the train, which had the mixed benefit of a beautiful view of the countryside with a permanent glare from the setting sun right in my eyes. I'm still glad I got the window, though. I spent some of the time reading The Case for Christ which I am reading with a couple of friends this summer, but didn't want to read too much since the other people reading the book are too busy to read it much, and we are trying to discuss it via a shared Google doc as we go. Fortunately my seatmate was a very nice acquaintance and we could spend most of the time talking and getting to know each other better (in particular, we spoke about long-distance relationships. He and his girlfriend have been together for over a year now and have attended different schools during the entire duration of the relationship, and I was most curious to hear how they coped with always being so far apart. Their strategy is frequent communication - every day, in fact - something that I'm frankly not capable of or willing to commit to, so we'll see how things work out for me. I'm not too worried :P). Since it was a six-hour train ride (six hours across the entire country! That's how long it takes to drive across MAINE!) and late, I also slept a bit, and so the time passed until our arrival in Berlin. The first thing I noticed about this city is the massiveness - even the central train station was three floors!! Fortunately the hostel was right in the center of town, so a mere one stop with the S-Bahn brought us to our final destination for the night. We had to walk along a canal to get to the hostel and the lights dancing on the water were quite pretty, though I was by this point very tired. We split up at the hostel into several groups - my roommates for the weekend were four girls from my spring German 102-5 class, Greta, Kathy, Olivia, and Claudia. I was quite happy with the arrangement and we traipsed off to bed as soon as possible - even though that meant dragging our luggage up five flights of stairs.
Thanks to my usual sleep schedule, I was up the next morning at 7 whether I liked it or not. I managed to snooze until 8, but still had a solid 90 minutes to get ready before we met for our first day's activities. We all bought our breakfast from a bakery in the train station - unfortunately the pastry I selected looked much better than it tasted, so I consoled myself with an ice cream cone from a shop that was for some reason open at 10AM. We started our day with a tour of the city center. The weather was nice and the buildings were pretty, so it was fairly enjoyable. Then we split up to go to one of several museum choices - I went with Hannes and a large contingent to visit the Deutsche Historische Museum, and couldn't have been happier. The museum had exhibit displays in both German and English which provided a fantastic summary of German history since the first centuries AD, and the artifacts themselves were naturally also fascinating. They had one of the original Gutenberg Bibles, a copy of Martin Luther's theses, several suits of armor for men and horses (one of my favorite aspects) and a wonderful array of artifacts pertaining to daily life in the Germany of the Middle Ages. This has always been the most fascinating time period to me for many reasons, so I was delighted to read more about it and would gladly have spent the entire day at the museum. As it was I was one of the last members of the group to emerge into the museum lobby, and then only reluctantly and after hurrying through the 15th-20th centuries. Perhaps most unfortunately, the exhibits after WWI were in a separate room that I didn't even get to look in, so I missed out completely on this perhaps most interesting period of German history. But we had far too much to do to stay in one museum all day, so we scurried off to meet the other members of the group. If I ever come back to Berlin I may return. Though I am by no means a fan of history in general, I really like the summary that a museum can give, and history museums are some of my favorite museums (behind science museums).
We met the rest of the group in an open-air market, where we ate lunch (I found a cheap pizzeria and was quite content). Most of the stalls sold handiwork, but there was also an area of people who had all kinds of antiques, mostly WWII-era. I made a mental note to come back here souvenir hunting, particularly for my WWII-buff father. After lunch we set off for another part of the city to do yet more exploring: this time we visited the Brandenburg Gate, the site of the former Berlin Wall, and other city-center historical sites. This part of our exploration ended at the Holocaust Memorial, one of the best-done memorials I have ever visited. It covers about the area of a small office building and the memorial consists entirely of cold, upright blocks of granite of gradually increasing height placed in an eerily exact grid on undulating cobblestone ground. It effectively conveyed the sense of being lost, identity-less, cut off and bewildered. Perhaps appropriately, just as we reached the memorial it began to rain. After exploring the above-ground part for awhile, those who wanted visited the information center located underneath. Overall the entire complex is very well done and sobering. The information center had a timeline of Hitler's genocidal rule, biographies on specific Jewish families from all over Europe and their stories of surviving (or not) the war, copies of postcards and letters sent from concentration camps and ghettos to the outside world, and one room where the death count of Jews from each country in Europe was estimated. The entire history of the event - that one man would set out to single-handedly wipe out an entire ethnic group from Europe and eventually the world - is so surreal that more than facts and staggering statistics, it is these individual artifacts of everyday life and people's impressions that are needed to bring home the reality of it all. I am even more curious now to visit the Holocaust Museum in Washington, D.C., to see the similarities and differences between the views of the two societies.
Once I finally emerged from the Information Center, I discovered that I was quite alone - the others had all left quite a while before and our instructions were to find supper before our next meeting point. This was a daunting task for someone of my small-town background and I texted Mareike for advice, but before receiving an answer I found a couple of the members of my group and we managed to scout out a reasonably-priced Chinese restaurant. I was really craving Asian food for some reason, and while what we found wasn't anything special, it was pretty good. The sauce was a little spicy for my tastes (yes, but even medium salsa is a little spicy for my tastes, I'm so completely not spice-tolerant) so to get rid of the burning sensation in my mouth I just had to buy some ice cream ;) We met afterwards at Potsdamer Platz, which used to be the Times Square of Europe in the 20s and 30s, then was destroyed in the war, leveled and deemed "no-mans land" during the time of the Berlin Wall as it divided East and West Germany, and finally revitalized all at once in the 90s in an attempt to bring it back to its former glory. Everything seems a little artificial since all of the buildings are less than 20 years old, but it's a regular tourist hotspot and there's tons to see and buy. Next to the Berlin Wall memorial was a man dressed as a member of the DDR State Security (Stasi) advertising the opportunity to get your passport stamped, as you would have had to to cross from West to East Germany. It was necessary to get 7 different stamps! One from each of the four sectors (American, British, French, and Soviet), as well as one for East Germany and West Germany in general, and the stamp from the particular crossing point you were using. I would have done it, but 10 Euros seemed a little steep for a piece of paper with stamps on it... Once we had all gathered we went over to one of the buildings on Potsdamer Platz and took a remarkably fast elevator up to the 93-meter-high observation deck from which to observe the city (aerial views of major cities seems to be a theme this summer...). Berlin isn't as pretty or as green as Munich, but that's rather to be expected. The pictures were cool anyway, but the wind was blowing strong and we soon got cold on the exposed observation deck. Professor Rankin escorted a couple members of the group back to the hostel, and we saw another group of PiMers on the way (whom I unashamedly stalked ;]). By the time we got back, I was exhausted from being on my feet all day. The grad students were boldly (and probably foolishly) organizing an outing to a bar/club later that night, but my being tired gave me an excuse to skip out on what would undoubtedly not have been a very enjoyable evening. From the stories I heard later, it wasn't very enjoyable for anyone else, either. Let's just say that American college students have a very difficult time engaging in normal, healthy, mediated drinking behavior. Case in point: certain members of the group pre-gamed (drank excessive amounts of alcohol beforehand) the bar. *facepalm* Basically, I didn't miss much.
The next morning was Sunday, and Professor Rankin (unsurprisingly) knew of a church in Berlin that he wanted to attend. Not having been to church in a couple of weeks (the previous Sunday we traveled to Neuschwanstein and the one before that we were flying to/arriving in Germany) I was more than willing to go, since not much else would be happening on a Sunday morning and the last thing I wanted to do was bum around the hostel the entire morning. What surprised me were the other people who also wanted to attend: nearly all of my roommates as well as several other group members. I wanted to make sure I had a good breakfast beforehand as I supposed that the service might go well into the noon hours and I didn't want to be distracted by a growling stomach. Fortunately the hostel offered a breakfast buffet for 5.50 Euros - unfortunately it wasn't very good. I ordered the buffet and even threw in some eggs for extra protein, reasoning that I could eat 7 Euros worth of food, but none of it was all that notable. The eggs looked good but had too much pepper for me, and even after filling up on several pieces of toast with jam and bowls of yogurt with musli I didn't really feel like I had gotten what I paid for. We met at 9 to travel to church and after navigating a combination of S-Bahns and U-Bahns we finally arrived at the church, "Lukas-Gemeinde". It was a non-denominational evangelical church much like Calvary Chapel or Westerly Road (the churches I normally attend while home and at school, respectively), belonging to the association of churches in Germany called "free churches" (which I am assuming has many the same connotations as non-denominational). The dress was relatively casual although most people wore button-down shirts or skirts/dresses, so we fit in perfectly. Professor Rankin even met one of his college roommates at the church, and from what I gathered he knew that his friend attended this church but didn't know whether he would be around this particular Sunday. The service was also much like what I was accustomed to, and I even recognized a couple of the songs - namely, "Open the Eyes of my Heart, Lord", and "Holy, Holy, Holy". Singing along in German is SO much easier than in Russian!! Probably the alphabet thing has something to do with that ;) After a few worship songs one of the elders got up and made some announcements, including a baby dedication and prayer for a specialist doctor in the congregation who was being sent to Afghanistan to perform reconstructive surgery on wounded soldiers and civilians. Then the pastor came up and spoke on I Cor. 3:16-17, where it talks about us being the Temple of the Holy Spirit (due to it being Pentecost weekend). I understood about 70% of the sermon, which was entirely in German of course, but the combination of travel fatigue and my long day on Saturday worked against me and I had a hard time keeping my eyes open. Of course, following along while falling asleep is hard enough in one's mother tongue, forget a foreign language! As a result, I don't remember much about the pastor's point, but it was nice to be back in church anyway. (And I wasn't the only one who spent the whole time fighting sleep - Dan was on one side of me and Sheng on the other and I caught them both nodding off at one point or another.)
After church Professor Rankin, being the wonderfully generous man that he is, treated us all to lunch back at Potsdamer Platz. We went to an Italian restaurant called Vapiano's, where I ordered a Cesar salad that proved to be quite enough for me (especially after intentionally having stuffed myself at breakfast). I shared a slice of cheesecake with Claudia and Dan for dessert, but it was disappointingly bland. Afterwards I was planning to rejoin the main group who had gone to a street festival, but Professor Rankin's suggestion of visiting Gedänkniskirche (the famous ornate church which was destroyed by Allied bombs during the war and retained in its broken state as a memorial) sounded much more interesting and I decided to do that instead. It was quite a disappointment when we reached the site only to discover that the church is currently undergoing renovations (renovating a blown-up building... hmmm...) and the iconic jagged outline is obscured by the scaffolding and temporary structure they have erected around it for the purpose. Nonetheless it was interesting to see the information-memorial inside and the new church that was built beside it, and I bought a postcard with the destroyed church on it so I suppose that will have to suffice. Since we couldn't see much, the visit didn't take us long and we were soon ready to find the group once more for a last bit of guided-tour and museum-visiting. We walked to the nearest S-Bahn stop through the Tierpark, which means "animal park" but is really just the name for the largest park in Berlin. We did pass the zoo and I looked at admission prices, as we had Monday free and I was considering going to the zoo, but the 10-Euro admission price (even for students!) convinced me that my time would be much better spent seeing something else (however, when I later found out that the Berlin Zoo is one of the largest zoological gardens in the WORLD, I had second thoughts about my decision...). The Tierpark in general was nice, but nothing too special - not any prettier than Nymphenberg Park or English Garden in Munich.
We found the rest of the group near the famous East-to-West Germany crossing point, Checkpoint Charlie. (Now, it also happened to be right outside of a Starbucks with free Wi-Fi, which I promptly took advantage of with my iPod touch to check email. ;]) We saw the sign that says "You are now leaving the American Sector" in English, French, and Russian (why did it not need to say it in German? Was it just self-evident to them?) and were going to visit the Checkpoint Charlie Museum until we realized that it cost 6 Euros even for students. Professor Rankin and the grad students were quite upset about such blatant extortionism, since the museum was neither very large nor very good, in their opinion, so we contented ourselves with pictures of the guard booth and sign instead. Then it was time to split up into groups once again to visit museums based on interest - out of the options (Jewish Museum, some cathedrals, the Stasi Museum, and some other random art museums) the Stasi Museum sounded most interesting, but unfortunately it turned out to be little more than an exhibit while the actual museum was under construction. Nonetheless it was somewhat instructive, as far as the exhibits had English descriptions, and having watched the movie "Das Leben der Anderen" ("The Lives of Others") about the DDR, I had a little more background to the subject. The fact that the Stasi (state police) had a file on every single citizen or extended visitor to East Germany was the most mind-boggling thing. Professor Rankin is even pretty sure that they have a file on him somewhere due to a visit of a couple of weeks in East Berlin back around 1986. The size of the exhibit meant that it didn't take very long to see everything and I was soon back on the street wondering what to do next. I returned to the Starbucks to look up possibilities for Monday online and discovered two particular treasures in the DDR museum and the just-opened Computer Game museum, and decided that since it was already getting on towards 6:00 (the time when most museums close) it really wasn't worth it to try and visit another one that day. Instead I decided to do a little souvenir shopping, though I knew that the stores around Checkpoint Charlie were likely to be quite expensive. In particular I wanted something with the iconic East-Germany crossing-light silhouette on it: Der Ampelmann. www.ampelmann.de And they had exactly what I was looking for - bookmarks, pins, earrings, signs, calendars, you name it. Success was achieved for only a small price and I soon strutted victoriously back to the hostel. Our next meeting point was at 7:30 at a pizzeria, but because of my two large meals already that day I planned to skip that and only join them when they went to a Biergarten (an outdoor area where you can bring your own food or buy it there and they specialize in selling - what else - beer) a couple of hours later. This gave me enough time to do my homework reading assignment and take a 1-hour nap before our supposed meeting point, but of course nothing ever goes according to plan. At 9:15 I texted Hannes and asked whether the group was heading to the Biergarten yet - he replied that they were still at the pizzeria (but my impression was that they would leave soon). Armed with only my trusty map and good sense of direction, I found my way to the restaurant only to discover that everyone had only JUST gotten their pizza after an excruciating 90-minute wait. I sat down anyway and was only going to observe, but did partake in a couple of pieces of pizza when it was offered to me. When it became clear that we weren't leaving right away I was even prevailed upon, against my better judgement, to order a plain cheese pizza for myself, since it turned out that Princeton was paying 5 Euros towards everyone's pizza and a plain cheese 10" cost 5,40€. Finally at nearly eleven everyone was ready to pay and go, and my pizza ended up coming just as we were all leaving (I asked for a box and devoured it as quickly as possible). Some brave souls still wanted to brave a Biergarten, but I knew that I wouldn't really enjoy anything this late and I wanted to have as much time as possible in the morning for museum exploration before we had to meet for our train back to Munich. So, I joined the group heading back to the hostel, which we reached via tram this time, and clambered into bed at midnight. The evening wasn't a total loss - I got a pizza nearly for free (nothing special, but I love pizza) and to hang out with the group, which is (nearly) always enjoyable. One of the other members of the group asked me as we were walking back, "Did you come to the pizzeria late?" I answered affirmatively, wondering why he was asking. He said, "I thought so. We had been there for a bit when I thought, 'Where's Erin? I haven't heard her laugh for awhile.' But then I looked down the table and you were sitting there at the end, so I was confused." Well, it looks like it doesn't take long for people to figure me out - this particular individual is someone I hadn't hung out with hardly at all before the program, and already he had learned that I am almost always pinpointable - one only has to be quiet for a moment and listen for my laugh. -_-
Monday. Our last day in Berlin, and finally we are given a bit of free time to do whatever we would like. I had finally decided on the Computer Game museum, the only downside being that it opened at 10 which gave me a couple of solid hours in the morning. I got up at 8, packed my suitcase and stored it downstairs, but even doing it as slowly as possible meant that I checked out at 9. Returning to the train station of the first day I revisited the bakery and purchased both breakfast and lunch for the train (the pastry I chose this time was much better, thankfully). Since it was only about a fifteen minute train ride from this train station to the Computer Game museum, I stopped off about halfway to scope the antiques market, but the sellers were in the middle of setting up their wares, so I decided to return afterwards to buy my souvenirs. Even with all of the dawdling I could manage I ended up at the Computer Game museum about fifteen minutes before it opened, but the wait was worth it. It only opened in January of this year and was quite small, but all of the exhibits had English displays and it was very instructive to read about the history of the computer and video game. In true German spirit many of the displays were interactive and I played some of the original arcade games (Centipede, Space Invaders, Donkey Kong), all of which I remember playing on the Atari that was my first video-game system... but I date myself. There were exhibits on everything from landmark games to creation of a video game to aspects of video game fan culture to video games in the DDR (a highly regulated industry, like all of them). All in all, though, the museum only took me two hours to thoroughly explore everything, which was just the right amount of time to make it back to the antiques market to meet my friends. I found the perfect souvenir for Daddy (the identity of which I won't disclose here to avoid spoiling the surprise ;]) as well as a very pretty pair of earrings for me. There was quite a bit of jewelry there, which naturally made me think of my sister, but I'm so bad at figuring out her tastes that I didn't dare buy her anything until I had spoken with her to get a better idea of what she wanted (not that that would necessarily help). Then it was back to the hostel once again to gather everyone and head out. As always with a group this size (nearly everyone had elected to come to Berlin, so we were about 40) there was a lot of waiting around, but we still made it to the Hauptbahnhof in plenty of time for a "last meal" in Berlin (I found a pizza-pastry at a bakery and - of course - more ice cream ;]). The train arrived exactly on time (it's Germany. Everything's exactly on time) and we clambered on, trying to get in first to avoid the situation of the ride up. The seating situation was better this time and we soon settled in for the long ride back. I had set up a Skype date with my boyfriend for the next morning (Monday, being the 13th, marked 3 months of dating - collective *awww* :P) so I knew I wouldn't get too much sleep Monday night, and in light of this I tried to sleep on the train, but I have a very hard time falling asleep when I can't get horizontal, so it didn't work too well, regardless of whether I tried the window, the table, or my seatmate's shoulder as a support. But the scenery was pretty, and I had my iPod for music, and the pickle-and-egg sandwich that I had bought as lunch wasn't even that bad (really! it wasn't!), so it was an overall pleasant journey. For some reason the S-Bahns weren't in operation when we got back to Munich, so we had to take a bus back to the Wohnheim, but that was all figured out by the grad students and required minimal thinking from us. On the way back we passed a store that seemed to sell exclusively dirndls, which reminded me how badly I wanted one, and I made a note to go dirndl-shopping sometime before I left Munich. At 10pm I finally crawled into bed back in Munich, and for some reason I felt like I was back home. :)
Friday, July 1, 2011
Saturday, June 18, 2011
Up Before the Sun
By the second week of the program I had settled firmly into a comfortable routine and was even beginning to enjoy my chosen sleep schedule, unusual as it may be. It works particularly well if I want to Skype someone from home, especially since most of the people I would be interested in talking to have day-job commitments. If I get up extra early (I've done 4am a couple of times) it's only 10pm on the East Coast and I have a good couple of hours to talk to whomever it is while I am nice and fresh and before they get too tired. On Monday I tried this out with my boyfriend and thoroughly enjoyed a nearly two-hour conversation, after which I still had almost two hours before I had to leave for the Institute. Unfortunately this schedule won't work for my family who are of the same "early to bed, early to rise" philosophy as me, so finding times to talk to them is a little more involved. At the very least, in the mornings I tend to make my breakfast and do my homework (various grammar exercises and reviewing vocabulary), as well as write an email or two if I'm lucky enough to have received one (hint, hint), before scurrying off to class at 8:30.
Monday was our first Princeton precept of the program. The two graduate students from the German department, Mareike and Hannes, are responsible for the 107G precepts as well as organizing numerous day trips and being general good resources for anything we might need here. Mareike leads our precept, and so far they make me feel just like I'm back at Princeton. As I mentioned, we are reading The Metamorphosis by Franz Kafka in its original German, and it's slow going. The story is much more interesting now that we've gotten into it and something is actually happening, but the vocabulary sheets we are given for each reading assignment (we read about 10 pages for every precept, which happen twice a week) are several pages long and doing the reading always involves looking up additional vocabulary as well. The discussions are occasionally interesting but necessarily limited by the fact that they are carried out completely in German, and, being an engineer myself, these discussions of humanities topics such as "what is a monster? Is Gregor Samsa a man or an animal?" hold almost no interest for me and are difficult for me to participate in. It reminds me again why I'm studying Mechanical Engineering and not Comparative Literature (I can't believe I ever considered switching to that major). German 209 - German Literature, which I plan to take in the fall should I decide to study abroad in Germany in the spring semester in order to maintain my German proficiency - should be interesting, even if I do PDF it. :P
Monday was shopping day for me, and I filled my refrigerator for only 22 Euros. In fact, nearly two weeks later, I still haven't used up all of the food from that shopping trip and have only needed to buy essentials such as milk and orange juice since. I treated myself to an entire frozen pizza for supper (trying to convince myself that it wasn't a completely American meal) and was so exhausted from my early morning that, after doing a bit of homework, fell into bed at 9pm instead of watching a movie in the basement with the group.
Tuesday some of us wanted to go to the BMW Museum and factory, which is one of the more interesting sights here in Munich (BMW means "Bavarian Motor Works", did you know that?). A large contingent of the group was going to one of the three Pinakothek (art) museums and complained that we should go to BMW World another day (until this point we had done excursions nearly exclusively as an entire group instead of splitting up, though as the month wore on we would get more and more independent), but that didn't interest me at all so Nathan, Brian, and I headed off to look at some cars. We stopped back by the Wohnheim first to do a little internet research (I learned that there is an opportunity for factory tours, but since they take 2.5 hours and the tour has been rerouted to no longer pass through the main assembly area, we decided against this), and I tried to get some other errands done as well, but the internet (which is spotty here at best) was being unusually frustrating and I didn't actually accomplish anything before we headed out. BMW World was worth it, though. The showroom didn't cost anything to explore, and it was almost as interesting as a museum in itself. In addition to the newest line of automobiles on display, there were several interactive exhibits which highlighted aspects of the BMW - the new "night vision" camera, on-board internet (worst idea EVER), dynamic steering control, the advantages of a hybrid motor, etc. Interactivity must be a very German thing - BMW World reminded me in many respects of the Deutsche Museum with its "try it and see" philosophy. After wandering the showroom for a while (and asking the boys' opinion on which car was the "coolest" so that I could get a picture in it for my brother) we headed over to the museum - as it was already 4:00 and the museum closed at 6, I voted that we skip the main museum and only buy tickets for the special exhibit, which were much cheaper. This turned out to be an excellent decision as the "special exhibit" were the world-famous BMW "Art Cars" - cars with special paint jobs commissioned by famous artists. It took us the entire two hours just to look at these wonders, even though there were only 15 of them. I got some amazing pictures! After the exhibit I rushed to the souvenir shop to search for something for my brother - I figured something I got him from the BMW Museum would mean much more than a postcard or silly magnet to someone as interested in cool cars as he is. For some inexplicable reason the souvenir shop had no posters (which was my first idea), and a model car is a little young for him (he's 14 now). My next thought was a book, the only problem (besides the price) being that most of them were in German (I have to keep reminding myself that no one else in my family will understand German :P). I finally found something at 5:55, however, and returned victorious to the Wohnheim for the night.
As has been the case several times, I found that I wasn't particularly hungry Tuesday evening, and so I contented myself with a carrot for supper and went to bed rather early. The way I see it, since I'm paying for all of my own food, it's a much better idea to listen to my body and only eat when I'm hungry as opposed to wasting money by forcing myself to eat three big meals a day. A typical lunch for me is a sandwich (either butter and cheese or PB&J - I found peanut butter at the supermarket and I'm SO happy about that!) and an apple, which usually tides me over from cereal at breakfast time until supper around 4 or 5, should I choose to make it. I am also discovering the wonder of leftovers - if I make enough of something not to eat it all in one night, I make supper for the next several evenings a matter of warming up a portion in the microwave for 2 minutes instead of taking 15-30 to prepare something. I think I'm going to like leftovers when I am independent next year at Princeton. :)
Wednesday started a vicious cycle, one that I tend to fall into far too easily. Our first test was on Friday, and though I generally don't worry about exams (I'm a good test-taker, as a rule) I had been having trouble not slipping into the summer "don't-wanna-do-anything=productive" mode which makes studying so much harder, and that began to worry me. I couldn't decide whether to not care about the test and enjoy my time here in Munich as a good cultural experience, or to freak out and study really hard and focus on the fact that I was here in Munich to study and my eventual goal was to be fluent in German by the end of this summer. The indecision in itself began to stress me out, especially as I realized that I was simply trying to do too much between studying, exploring the city, blogging, several Bible studies by myself and with others (I'm reading Colossians in German for the Christian vocab, Romans with my boyfriend, and The Case for Christ by Lee Strobel with him and my best friend) and discussing them all, keeping in regular contact with friends and family from home, and getting enough sleep. I felt like I had to cut something out or go crazy, which led to the blog post of last week as well as at least one very stressed email to a close friend. In hindsight my freak-out was mostly just silly, but I'm very good at working myself up over inconsequential things like that. In any case it led to a rather miserable few days, when I was still doing activities but accompanied by the nagging feeling that I was wasting my time when doing anything besides studying, even though I couldn't motivate myself to study even when I had the opportunity.
Wednesday I visited the Museum Reich der Kristalle, the university collection of precious stones and crystals. I could read many of the exhibit signs (I'm improving - yay!) and the museum was certainly interesting (I saw the largest amethyst crystal I've ever seen - amethyst is my birthstone - as well as one of the largest single-crystal diamonds ever discovered and some really cool luminescent rocks) but nothing spectacular. Afterwards I forced myself to sit down and study vocabulary for several hours even though it was the last thing I wanted to do (so much of it seems so useless! Who really needs to know four ways to say "The pressure decreased"?), and because of being so absorbed in this forgot (for the second week in a row) to bring my bedding and towels down for the weekly linens change, which was rather frustrating (not, if you promise not to think less of me for this confession, that I've never gone more than two weeks without washing my towels and sheets...). That evening we had the opportunity to swim in the oldest swimming pool in Munich, which was built in 1901 and was at the time the largest in the country? world? Anyway, it was rather impressive, and I had a good time, but we ended up staying rather longer than I would have liked and I got antsy about the time that I wasn't spending studying or sleeping. By the time we got back to the Wohnheim it was already 11:00, which was the latest I had been awake thus far in the program (and the first time I had gone to bed after sunset, which is at 9).
Unfortunately the next morning I still woke up at 5, whether from my newly-developed habit or because of the stress I don't know, but I snoozed until 6 before getting up and attempting to be very efficient by making breakfast while I did my laundry. Unfortunately things never go according to plan and when I went down to the laundry room I discovered that the laundry detergent I had been sharing with Dan had been stolen (and without my even having gotten to use it :[), so that nullified that idea. I went to make my breakfast and lunch and when I took out a carrot to peel for lunch I discovered that since I had bought them last Saturday, they had begun to mold. Of course carrots mold, but I had never seen this before at home, whether because we eat the carrots too fast for them to decay or due to the climate/humidity in my room in Munich (they were sitting on a shelf) or whether the carrots I had bought were simply not very fresh, I don't know, but it was a very disappointing discovery. Being as frugal as I am, I was quite reluctant to simply throw the vegetables away, and so laboriously washed and peeled them all, discovering to my delight that the mold had not yet penetrated past the first couple of layers of the carrot. I kept the carrots in my fridge until I could eat them all over the course of the next couple of days, and I didn't get sick from them, so all was not lost ;)
After class on Thursday I decided that I needed to start thinking about arrangements for my internship, particularly buying my train ticket from Munich to Clausthal and back (my plane back home in August flies out of Munich since it was much less expensive to change the details of my Princeton in Munich-provided flight instead of booking a completely new one) and opening a bank account so that my internship stipend could be deposited (ironic how when I am most stressed out I tend to think of think of the most other things to do which have the least to do with the source of my stress :P). So, having solicited the help of Hannes, we set off for the Central Train Station to investigate our ticket possibilities. The entire process was quite confusing and I was very glad to have the native speaker skills of Hannes to help me in understanding what the clerk was saying. We discovered that there were multiple options for both the journey to and from Clausthal, and suddenly it occurred to me that I should probably ask my supervising professor, who would be responsible for picking me up in Clausthal and giving me my apartment key (as I would be necessarily arriving on a Sunday, there would be no one at the apartment itself to hand the key over to me), what time would be most convenient for him for me to arrive. Armed with the information of possibilities, I returned to the Wohnheim and composed an email, ambitiously in German, asking for his preference. Although Thursday I should have spent the most time studying for the test, I instead ended up watching a German silent film from the 20s (called Metropolis, it was the "mega-blockbuster" of its time and one of the first Hollywood-style films) and attending a play, the script of which we had read during my German 102-5 class in the spring. The play turned out to be a very modern-artsy interpretation of the original play composed in the 30s (Der Besuch der Alten Dame) and I was very glad that we had read and discussed the play first, or else I would have been very confused by the way it was performed (there were five young actors whose roles were constantly changing with no difference in costume, only demeanor, and the fact that I already knew which lines belonged to which character was the only thing that kept me on track with the play). It was interesting and thought-provoking, even though it led to yet another late night (I didn't get to bed until 10:30, having done MUCH less studying than I planned on or should have done). And so my second week in Munich drew to its conclusion, amidst much stress and conflicting desires. It's gotten somewhat better since, thankfully.
Monday was our first Princeton precept of the program. The two graduate students from the German department, Mareike and Hannes, are responsible for the 107G precepts as well as organizing numerous day trips and being general good resources for anything we might need here. Mareike leads our precept, and so far they make me feel just like I'm back at Princeton. As I mentioned, we are reading The Metamorphosis by Franz Kafka in its original German, and it's slow going. The story is much more interesting now that we've gotten into it and something is actually happening, but the vocabulary sheets we are given for each reading assignment (we read about 10 pages for every precept, which happen twice a week) are several pages long and doing the reading always involves looking up additional vocabulary as well. The discussions are occasionally interesting but necessarily limited by the fact that they are carried out completely in German, and, being an engineer myself, these discussions of humanities topics such as "what is a monster? Is Gregor Samsa a man or an animal?" hold almost no interest for me and are difficult for me to participate in. It reminds me again why I'm studying Mechanical Engineering and not Comparative Literature (I can't believe I ever considered switching to that major). German 209 - German Literature, which I plan to take in the fall should I decide to study abroad in Germany in the spring semester in order to maintain my German proficiency - should be interesting, even if I do PDF it. :P
Monday was shopping day for me, and I filled my refrigerator for only 22 Euros. In fact, nearly two weeks later, I still haven't used up all of the food from that shopping trip and have only needed to buy essentials such as milk and orange juice since. I treated myself to an entire frozen pizza for supper (trying to convince myself that it wasn't a completely American meal) and was so exhausted from my early morning that, after doing a bit of homework, fell into bed at 9pm instead of watching a movie in the basement with the group.
Tuesday some of us wanted to go to the BMW Museum and factory, which is one of the more interesting sights here in Munich (BMW means "Bavarian Motor Works", did you know that?). A large contingent of the group was going to one of the three Pinakothek (art) museums and complained that we should go to BMW World another day (until this point we had done excursions nearly exclusively as an entire group instead of splitting up, though as the month wore on we would get more and more independent), but that didn't interest me at all so Nathan, Brian, and I headed off to look at some cars. We stopped back by the Wohnheim first to do a little internet research (I learned that there is an opportunity for factory tours, but since they take 2.5 hours and the tour has been rerouted to no longer pass through the main assembly area, we decided against this), and I tried to get some other errands done as well, but the internet (which is spotty here at best) was being unusually frustrating and I didn't actually accomplish anything before we headed out. BMW World was worth it, though. The showroom didn't cost anything to explore, and it was almost as interesting as a museum in itself. In addition to the newest line of automobiles on display, there were several interactive exhibits which highlighted aspects of the BMW - the new "night vision" camera, on-board internet (worst idea EVER), dynamic steering control, the advantages of a hybrid motor, etc. Interactivity must be a very German thing - BMW World reminded me in many respects of the Deutsche Museum with its "try it and see" philosophy. After wandering the showroom for a while (and asking the boys' opinion on which car was the "coolest" so that I could get a picture in it for my brother) we headed over to the museum - as it was already 4:00 and the museum closed at 6, I voted that we skip the main museum and only buy tickets for the special exhibit, which were much cheaper. This turned out to be an excellent decision as the "special exhibit" were the world-famous BMW "Art Cars" - cars with special paint jobs commissioned by famous artists. It took us the entire two hours just to look at these wonders, even though there were only 15 of them. I got some amazing pictures! After the exhibit I rushed to the souvenir shop to search for something for my brother - I figured something I got him from the BMW Museum would mean much more than a postcard or silly magnet to someone as interested in cool cars as he is. For some inexplicable reason the souvenir shop had no posters (which was my first idea), and a model car is a little young for him (he's 14 now). My next thought was a book, the only problem (besides the price) being that most of them were in German (I have to keep reminding myself that no one else in my family will understand German :P). I finally found something at 5:55, however, and returned victorious to the Wohnheim for the night.
As has been the case several times, I found that I wasn't particularly hungry Tuesday evening, and so I contented myself with a carrot for supper and went to bed rather early. The way I see it, since I'm paying for all of my own food, it's a much better idea to listen to my body and only eat when I'm hungry as opposed to wasting money by forcing myself to eat three big meals a day. A typical lunch for me is a sandwich (either butter and cheese or PB&J - I found peanut butter at the supermarket and I'm SO happy about that!) and an apple, which usually tides me over from cereal at breakfast time until supper around 4 or 5, should I choose to make it. I am also discovering the wonder of leftovers - if I make enough of something not to eat it all in one night, I make supper for the next several evenings a matter of warming up a portion in the microwave for 2 minutes instead of taking 15-30 to prepare something. I think I'm going to like leftovers when I am independent next year at Princeton. :)
Wednesday started a vicious cycle, one that I tend to fall into far too easily. Our first test was on Friday, and though I generally don't worry about exams (I'm a good test-taker, as a rule) I had been having trouble not slipping into the summer "don't-wanna-do-anything=productive" mode which makes studying so much harder, and that began to worry me. I couldn't decide whether to not care about the test and enjoy my time here in Munich as a good cultural experience, or to freak out and study really hard and focus on the fact that I was here in Munich to study and my eventual goal was to be fluent in German by the end of this summer. The indecision in itself began to stress me out, especially as I realized that I was simply trying to do too much between studying, exploring the city, blogging, several Bible studies by myself and with others (I'm reading Colossians in German for the Christian vocab, Romans with my boyfriend, and The Case for Christ by Lee Strobel with him and my best friend) and discussing them all, keeping in regular contact with friends and family from home, and getting enough sleep. I felt like I had to cut something out or go crazy, which led to the blog post of last week as well as at least one very stressed email to a close friend. In hindsight my freak-out was mostly just silly, but I'm very good at working myself up over inconsequential things like that. In any case it led to a rather miserable few days, when I was still doing activities but accompanied by the nagging feeling that I was wasting my time when doing anything besides studying, even though I couldn't motivate myself to study even when I had the opportunity.
Wednesday I visited the Museum Reich der Kristalle, the university collection of precious stones and crystals. I could read many of the exhibit signs (I'm improving - yay!) and the museum was certainly interesting (I saw the largest amethyst crystal I've ever seen - amethyst is my birthstone - as well as one of the largest single-crystal diamonds ever discovered and some really cool luminescent rocks) but nothing spectacular. Afterwards I forced myself to sit down and study vocabulary for several hours even though it was the last thing I wanted to do (so much of it seems so useless! Who really needs to know four ways to say "The pressure decreased"?), and because of being so absorbed in this forgot (for the second week in a row) to bring my bedding and towels down for the weekly linens change, which was rather frustrating (not, if you promise not to think less of me for this confession, that I've never gone more than two weeks without washing my towels and sheets...). That evening we had the opportunity to swim in the oldest swimming pool in Munich, which was built in 1901 and was at the time the largest in the country? world? Anyway, it was rather impressive, and I had a good time, but we ended up staying rather longer than I would have liked and I got antsy about the time that I wasn't spending studying or sleeping. By the time we got back to the Wohnheim it was already 11:00, which was the latest I had been awake thus far in the program (and the first time I had gone to bed after sunset, which is at 9).
Unfortunately the next morning I still woke up at 5, whether from my newly-developed habit or because of the stress I don't know, but I snoozed until 6 before getting up and attempting to be very efficient by making breakfast while I did my laundry. Unfortunately things never go according to plan and when I went down to the laundry room I discovered that the laundry detergent I had been sharing with Dan had been stolen (and without my even having gotten to use it :[), so that nullified that idea. I went to make my breakfast and lunch and when I took out a carrot to peel for lunch I discovered that since I had bought them last Saturday, they had begun to mold. Of course carrots mold, but I had never seen this before at home, whether because we eat the carrots too fast for them to decay or due to the climate/humidity in my room in Munich (they were sitting on a shelf) or whether the carrots I had bought were simply not very fresh, I don't know, but it was a very disappointing discovery. Being as frugal as I am, I was quite reluctant to simply throw the vegetables away, and so laboriously washed and peeled them all, discovering to my delight that the mold had not yet penetrated past the first couple of layers of the carrot. I kept the carrots in my fridge until I could eat them all over the course of the next couple of days, and I didn't get sick from them, so all was not lost ;)
After class on Thursday I decided that I needed to start thinking about arrangements for my internship, particularly buying my train ticket from Munich to Clausthal and back (my plane back home in August flies out of Munich since it was much less expensive to change the details of my Princeton in Munich-provided flight instead of booking a completely new one) and opening a bank account so that my internship stipend could be deposited (ironic how when I am most stressed out I tend to think of think of the most other things to do which have the least to do with the source of my stress :P). So, having solicited the help of Hannes, we set off for the Central Train Station to investigate our ticket possibilities. The entire process was quite confusing and I was very glad to have the native speaker skills of Hannes to help me in understanding what the clerk was saying. We discovered that there were multiple options for both the journey to and from Clausthal, and suddenly it occurred to me that I should probably ask my supervising professor, who would be responsible for picking me up in Clausthal and giving me my apartment key (as I would be necessarily arriving on a Sunday, there would be no one at the apartment itself to hand the key over to me), what time would be most convenient for him for me to arrive. Armed with the information of possibilities, I returned to the Wohnheim and composed an email, ambitiously in German, asking for his preference. Although Thursday I should have spent the most time studying for the test, I instead ended up watching a German silent film from the 20s (called Metropolis, it was the "mega-blockbuster" of its time and one of the first Hollywood-style films) and attending a play, the script of which we had read during my German 102-5 class in the spring. The play turned out to be a very modern-artsy interpretation of the original play composed in the 30s (Der Besuch der Alten Dame) and I was very glad that we had read and discussed the play first, or else I would have been very confused by the way it was performed (there were five young actors whose roles were constantly changing with no difference in costume, only demeanor, and the fact that I already knew which lines belonged to which character was the only thing that kept me on track with the play). It was interesting and thought-provoking, even though it led to yet another late night (I didn't get to bed until 10:30, having done MUCH less studying than I planned on or should have done). And so my second week in Munich drew to its conclusion, amidst much stress and conflicting desires. It's gotten somewhat better since, thankfully.
Thursday, June 16, 2011
The Long-Awaited Continuation
Well, after nearly a week's break (and overcoming some serious resistance to start now that I'm so far behind - funny how that works, huh?) I'm back. Well, we might as well resume where we left off...
On the Sunday of the first weekend here in Munich, after a week of intense German and fighting that "it's summer now, I don't want to work" mentality, we celebrated by taking a day trip sponsored by the Goethe Institute to two very interesting locations outside the city. The bus left from the Central Train Station 7:45am, which was no problem for me (I *still* had time to make myself breakfast, do my Bible study, etc. in the morning) but caused many complaints from the other students. We drove about an hour to reach Glentleiten, which is an open-air museum displaying traditional buildings from the last few centuries in Bavaria. I visited something similar in Russia when I went to Novgorod, but this time I actually understood most of what the guide said in German, and it wasn't at the end of an exhausting day but the beginning, so I enjoyed it much more. The weather was absolutely perfect - 75˚ and just enough clouds in the sky to make for better vista pictures. Which there was no shortage of opportunity to take, since the museum was on relatively high ground in view of the Alps. The buildings themselves were interesting and tastefully furnished with furniture and other household objects from the time period of the house. The thing that struck me most was what small areas people tended to live in in centuries past: a room the size of my dorm here in Munich would probably have served as the kitchen or living room, or parent's bedroom if the family was quite well-off. But in any case the ceilings in most of the buildings (unless it was a room with an open fire which necessitated a place for the smoke to gather above the heads of the inhabitants) were not higher than seven feet and gave everything a cramped and cozy feel (the reason being, of course, concerns over the necessity of heating the poorly-ventilated rooms with a fire). The entire museum was interesting and pretty, but not especially exciting, and I was glad when we loaded back onto the bus to continue to the real attraction of the day.
After another hour's drive, we arrived at Neuschwanstein, one of the three palaces of the Bavarian king of the 19th century, Ludwig the Second. The white stone palace precariously perched on the edge of a ridge against a breathtaking background of the foothills of the Alps is allegedly the inspiration for the Walt Disney Sleeping Beauty castle, and it even lived up to the splendor of its reputation. One cannot simply drive up to the gates of the castle, but must instead park down in the village like all of the other peasants and approach the imposing fortress on foot, a quite steep walk that winds back and forth across the face of the ridge, unless of course one wants to brave the fee and the line to be driven up in a horse-drawn carriage or take the much less romantic bus ride up the back side of the ridge. Before setting out on this taxing journey we of course needed sustenance, so we stopped in a restaurant down in the village for lunch. The menu was quite expensive on grounds of the monopoly the restaurant had on the foodservice industry of the village, but this was a special day and deserved a special treat. I ordered Wienerschnitzel (breaded pork) with Kartoffelsalat (potato salad, but better than what we think of as potato salad - made with oil instead of mayonnaise), and it was downright delicious. The waitresses were all dressed in the traditional Bavarian women's costume of a dirndl, complete with apron and hair in braids or buns, as was our guide at Glentleiten. One of my main goals before I leave Munich has now become to obtain one of these outfits for myself. I have been informed that although it is not uncommon to see both men and women in traditional garb going about everyday life in Munich, such a wardrobe will be laughed at in other parts of Germany, much like wearing a Stetson, chaps, and cowboy boots in the middle of Manhattan, but this does not deter me. The only question is finding a set in my price range...
After lunch we set off for the palace. Of course, besides the official way, there exist many shortcuts which take a steeper, more direct route up to the gates, but for liability reasons our tour guide expressly recommended against taking these more dangerous, unofficial paths. I was not to be deterred, however, from taking advantage of the obviously much shorter route to the palace gates, as our tour was scheduled for a particular time and, in true German style, latecomers were not accommodated. (Given the amount of people who come through the palace every day - several thousand - the tours are remarkably well-organized and impeccably timed). I was able to convince one other member of the group - Sheng - to accompany me, and we reached the meeting point without any injuries and well ahead of the rest of the group. This gave us time to both peruse the souvenir shop (I couldn't resist buying a few of the most beautiful postcards to send back to friends and family back home) and take a few pictures in front of the picturesque views. Soon the rest of the group caught up and we entered the palace courtyard to wait for our tour time. The tour, when it finally came, was quick, efficient, and informative. I again found, to my delight, that I understood most of the commentary of the German-speaking tour guide. Unfortunately there were no photographs permitted of the interior of the palace, but it was certainly a sight to behold. Not quite as lavish as those of the Russian czars that I had seen in St. Petersburg (i.e. the Hermitage, Katherine's Palace and Peterhoff), but the mosaics and paintings on the walls, as well as the carved woodwork, was still quite impressive. Most curious was the passage which was constructed to look like the inside of a cave, complete with stalactites and eerie green lighting (which is, however, most likely not authentic). True to the name, there were figures of swans everywhere (Schwan is the German word for swan, in case you didn't make the connection) and it was just a very pretty castle. Too bad Ludwig didn't get to enjoy it for long before he was hauled off to house arrest by Parliment who had a doctor's certification of his mental instability, and died in Starnberger See under mysterious circumstances soon afterwards. After finishing the tour one must pass through two separate souvenir shops and a cafe before exiting the palace altogether, so that one has every last possible chance to buy something if one has the slightest inclination. I didn't pay much attention to these, however, as I was occupied trying to soothe a lost child we had acquired just after the end of the tour.
Her name was Alexandra and she appeared to be about nine years old. Thankfully she was American (I don't know how effective I would have been in consoling a German-speaking child) and she had somehow lost track of her family in the masses of people traveling through the palace. I was not the first to find her, only the first native English speaker. Of the other two women who were talking to her when I walked up, one spoke heavily accented English and the other only German. The German-speaker offered to go back and look for the mother while we took Alexandra to the palace exit in case the family had gone ahead and were looking for her there. Had I truly stopped to think about this course of action I would have brought Alexandra back myself, reasoning that she was much more likely to have run ahead of her family than to have fallen behind, but things tend to happen quickly in these circumstances and my first priority was to stop Alexandra from crying. So we slowly walked her out and I gratefully used my English to comfort her, meanwhile asking questions that would give us the information needed to reunite her with her family. I discovered that she was in the English-speaking tour group that had been just behind us, and that she had last seen her mother in one of the souvenir shops (which cemented my suspicion that the mother was behind, not before). Then we happened upon a potentially useful piece of information when she piped up with "I know Mom's phone number." I immediately whipped out my cell phone, glad to have a concrete way to help, but when looking over Alexandra's shoulder I saw her type in seven numbers I knew our cause was lost - why would a nine-year-old understand that an American phone won't work in another country? After explaining that she would need to dial a few more than seven numbers we tried again with country and area code but the call didn't go through - as I suspected, the mother was probably not using her American cell phone abroad. I decided to wait with Alexandra until her mother came out of the palace, as I reasoned she must eventually, while Dan scurried off to the palace gates to inquire whether an announcement could be made over loudspeaker. Soon the German-speaking woman returned and informed me that everyone behind us spoke only English, so she couldn't communicate with them, but that no one appeared to be overly distressed or looking for anyone. However, it was only a matter of time before Alexandra, watching the people emerging from the exit as I had instructed her to, let out a cry of "Mommy!!" and ran to a youngish woman and her husband. I was impressed with how calm the mother had remained: she just gently said to Alexandra, "Why did you run off ahead of us like that?" She then looked at me and I informed her, "Yeah, I wasn't going to leave her until we found you, I knew it was just a matter of time." My job was done. Not done particularly well or efficiently, but done, and I left the family to deal with the disobedient Alexandra. Man, my leader skills must be rusty - but then again, hindsight is always 20/20. At least I know what I would do next time in that situation - take Alexandra back myself instead of sending a (albeit well-intentioned) German-speaker into the crowd of American tourists to search for a mother who was not overly concerned that her child had left her sight (I only hope that when I become a mother I'm as calm as that woman. I think I will be - I can totally imagine my mom acting the same way if I had disappeared at that age :D).
Unfortunately this little escapade left us pressed for time and the group decided that we didn't have enough to take the side trip to Maria's Bridge, a footbridge over the deep ravine with a beautiful view of the palace situated in the surrounding mountains. I refused to accept such a decision, however, and belligerently set off with Sheng to prove them wrong. It wasn't hard with just the two of us hurrying (and even stopping to take some pictures from time to time - after all, wasn't that why we came?), and we made it to the bridge and back with plenty of time to spare - taking again one of the more "direct" paths down the ridge to the village. At one point, when the trail narrowed to a footpath, Sheng questioned our decision to forsake the official way, but I assured him quite confidently, "I'm an OA Leader. Trust me, I have a good sense of direction." Those could have been famous last words, but thankfully disaster was avoided and we enjoyed a very scenic, albeit quite steep and heart-pounding, journey back to the bus. (I was certainly glad for my hiking boots!!) Thankfully the AC in the bus worked, and I enjoyed a good nap during the two-hour ride back to Munich. While I didn't think I exerted myself too badly during the trek up and down the ridge, my legs told me otherwise as soon as I stood up to debus back at the Central Train Station, and they were quite sore for some days afterwards. By the time we reached the Wohnung again I was more than ready for bed, too tired even to have much appetite. One carrot sufficed for my supper, and I fell into bed quite early, lulled to sleep by a terrific thunderstorm outside my window complete with frequent lightning, ominous quick-moving clouds, and terrifying rolls of thunder. And so ended my first perfect weekend in Munich. Here's to many more to come!!!
On the Sunday of the first weekend here in Munich, after a week of intense German and fighting that "it's summer now, I don't want to work" mentality, we celebrated by taking a day trip sponsored by the Goethe Institute to two very interesting locations outside the city. The bus left from the Central Train Station 7:45am, which was no problem for me (I *still* had time to make myself breakfast, do my Bible study, etc. in the morning) but caused many complaints from the other students. We drove about an hour to reach Glentleiten, which is an open-air museum displaying traditional buildings from the last few centuries in Bavaria. I visited something similar in Russia when I went to Novgorod, but this time I actually understood most of what the guide said in German, and it wasn't at the end of an exhausting day but the beginning, so I enjoyed it much more. The weather was absolutely perfect - 75˚ and just enough clouds in the sky to make for better vista pictures. Which there was no shortage of opportunity to take, since the museum was on relatively high ground in view of the Alps. The buildings themselves were interesting and tastefully furnished with furniture and other household objects from the time period of the house. The thing that struck me most was what small areas people tended to live in in centuries past: a room the size of my dorm here in Munich would probably have served as the kitchen or living room, or parent's bedroom if the family was quite well-off. But in any case the ceilings in most of the buildings (unless it was a room with an open fire which necessitated a place for the smoke to gather above the heads of the inhabitants) were not higher than seven feet and gave everything a cramped and cozy feel (the reason being, of course, concerns over the necessity of heating the poorly-ventilated rooms with a fire). The entire museum was interesting and pretty, but not especially exciting, and I was glad when we loaded back onto the bus to continue to the real attraction of the day.
After another hour's drive, we arrived at Neuschwanstein, one of the three palaces of the Bavarian king of the 19th century, Ludwig the Second. The white stone palace precariously perched on the edge of a ridge against a breathtaking background of the foothills of the Alps is allegedly the inspiration for the Walt Disney Sleeping Beauty castle, and it even lived up to the splendor of its reputation. One cannot simply drive up to the gates of the castle, but must instead park down in the village like all of the other peasants and approach the imposing fortress on foot, a quite steep walk that winds back and forth across the face of the ridge, unless of course one wants to brave the fee and the line to be driven up in a horse-drawn carriage or take the much less romantic bus ride up the back side of the ridge. Before setting out on this taxing journey we of course needed sustenance, so we stopped in a restaurant down in the village for lunch. The menu was quite expensive on grounds of the monopoly the restaurant had on the foodservice industry of the village, but this was a special day and deserved a special treat. I ordered Wienerschnitzel (breaded pork) with Kartoffelsalat (potato salad, but better than what we think of as potato salad - made with oil instead of mayonnaise), and it was downright delicious. The waitresses were all dressed in the traditional Bavarian women's costume of a dirndl, complete with apron and hair in braids or buns, as was our guide at Glentleiten. One of my main goals before I leave Munich has now become to obtain one of these outfits for myself. I have been informed that although it is not uncommon to see both men and women in traditional garb going about everyday life in Munich, such a wardrobe will be laughed at in other parts of Germany, much like wearing a Stetson, chaps, and cowboy boots in the middle of Manhattan, but this does not deter me. The only question is finding a set in my price range...
After lunch we set off for the palace. Of course, besides the official way, there exist many shortcuts which take a steeper, more direct route up to the gates, but for liability reasons our tour guide expressly recommended against taking these more dangerous, unofficial paths. I was not to be deterred, however, from taking advantage of the obviously much shorter route to the palace gates, as our tour was scheduled for a particular time and, in true German style, latecomers were not accommodated. (Given the amount of people who come through the palace every day - several thousand - the tours are remarkably well-organized and impeccably timed). I was able to convince one other member of the group - Sheng - to accompany me, and we reached the meeting point without any injuries and well ahead of the rest of the group. This gave us time to both peruse the souvenir shop (I couldn't resist buying a few of the most beautiful postcards to send back to friends and family back home) and take a few pictures in front of the picturesque views. Soon the rest of the group caught up and we entered the palace courtyard to wait for our tour time. The tour, when it finally came, was quick, efficient, and informative. I again found, to my delight, that I understood most of the commentary of the German-speaking tour guide. Unfortunately there were no photographs permitted of the interior of the palace, but it was certainly a sight to behold. Not quite as lavish as those of the Russian czars that I had seen in St. Petersburg (i.e. the Hermitage, Katherine's Palace and Peterhoff), but the mosaics and paintings on the walls, as well as the carved woodwork, was still quite impressive. Most curious was the passage which was constructed to look like the inside of a cave, complete with stalactites and eerie green lighting (which is, however, most likely not authentic). True to the name, there were figures of swans everywhere (Schwan is the German word for swan, in case you didn't make the connection) and it was just a very pretty castle. Too bad Ludwig didn't get to enjoy it for long before he was hauled off to house arrest by Parliment who had a doctor's certification of his mental instability, and died in Starnberger See under mysterious circumstances soon afterwards. After finishing the tour one must pass through two separate souvenir shops and a cafe before exiting the palace altogether, so that one has every last possible chance to buy something if one has the slightest inclination. I didn't pay much attention to these, however, as I was occupied trying to soothe a lost child we had acquired just after the end of the tour.
Her name was Alexandra and she appeared to be about nine years old. Thankfully she was American (I don't know how effective I would have been in consoling a German-speaking child) and she had somehow lost track of her family in the masses of people traveling through the palace. I was not the first to find her, only the first native English speaker. Of the other two women who were talking to her when I walked up, one spoke heavily accented English and the other only German. The German-speaker offered to go back and look for the mother while we took Alexandra to the palace exit in case the family had gone ahead and were looking for her there. Had I truly stopped to think about this course of action I would have brought Alexandra back myself, reasoning that she was much more likely to have run ahead of her family than to have fallen behind, but things tend to happen quickly in these circumstances and my first priority was to stop Alexandra from crying. So we slowly walked her out and I gratefully used my English to comfort her, meanwhile asking questions that would give us the information needed to reunite her with her family. I discovered that she was in the English-speaking tour group that had been just behind us, and that she had last seen her mother in one of the souvenir shops (which cemented my suspicion that the mother was behind, not before). Then we happened upon a potentially useful piece of information when she piped up with "I know Mom's phone number." I immediately whipped out my cell phone, glad to have a concrete way to help, but when looking over Alexandra's shoulder I saw her type in seven numbers I knew our cause was lost - why would a nine-year-old understand that an American phone won't work in another country? After explaining that she would need to dial a few more than seven numbers we tried again with country and area code but the call didn't go through - as I suspected, the mother was probably not using her American cell phone abroad. I decided to wait with Alexandra until her mother came out of the palace, as I reasoned she must eventually, while Dan scurried off to the palace gates to inquire whether an announcement could be made over loudspeaker. Soon the German-speaking woman returned and informed me that everyone behind us spoke only English, so she couldn't communicate with them, but that no one appeared to be overly distressed or looking for anyone. However, it was only a matter of time before Alexandra, watching the people emerging from the exit as I had instructed her to, let out a cry of "Mommy!!" and ran to a youngish woman and her husband. I was impressed with how calm the mother had remained: she just gently said to Alexandra, "Why did you run off ahead of us like that?" She then looked at me and I informed her, "Yeah, I wasn't going to leave her until we found you, I knew it was just a matter of time." My job was done. Not done particularly well or efficiently, but done, and I left the family to deal with the disobedient Alexandra. Man, my leader skills must be rusty - but then again, hindsight is always 20/20. At least I know what I would do next time in that situation - take Alexandra back myself instead of sending a (albeit well-intentioned) German-speaker into the crowd of American tourists to search for a mother who was not overly concerned that her child had left her sight (I only hope that when I become a mother I'm as calm as that woman. I think I will be - I can totally imagine my mom acting the same way if I had disappeared at that age :D).
Unfortunately this little escapade left us pressed for time and the group decided that we didn't have enough to take the side trip to Maria's Bridge, a footbridge over the deep ravine with a beautiful view of the palace situated in the surrounding mountains. I refused to accept such a decision, however, and belligerently set off with Sheng to prove them wrong. It wasn't hard with just the two of us hurrying (and even stopping to take some pictures from time to time - after all, wasn't that why we came?), and we made it to the bridge and back with plenty of time to spare - taking again one of the more "direct" paths down the ridge to the village. At one point, when the trail narrowed to a footpath, Sheng questioned our decision to forsake the official way, but I assured him quite confidently, "I'm an OA Leader. Trust me, I have a good sense of direction." Those could have been famous last words, but thankfully disaster was avoided and we enjoyed a very scenic, albeit quite steep and heart-pounding, journey back to the bus. (I was certainly glad for my hiking boots!!) Thankfully the AC in the bus worked, and I enjoyed a good nap during the two-hour ride back to Munich. While I didn't think I exerted myself too badly during the trek up and down the ridge, my legs told me otherwise as soon as I stood up to debus back at the Central Train Station, and they were quite sore for some days afterwards. By the time we reached the Wohnung again I was more than ready for bed, too tired even to have much appetite. One carrot sufficed for my supper, and I fell into bed quite early, lulled to sleep by a terrific thunderstorm outside my window complete with frequent lightning, ominous quick-moving clouds, and terrifying rolls of thunder. And so ended my first perfect weekend in Munich. Here's to many more to come!!!
Wednesday, June 8, 2011
Notice of Temporary Leave of Absence
Hello dear readers,
More and more it has come to my attention that Princeton in Munich is not Princeton in Petersburg, a perhaps self-evident conclusion, but with important implications. I actually have work to do here, I actually want to become fluent in the language, and particularly there is much in the city of Munich that I would love to experience instead of always sitting in my dorm in front of my computer. Therefore I give you ample warning that while I will most likely not cease altogether from maintaining this blog, the posts will be much fewer and farther between. This necessarily means that I will not be nearly so caught up in my activity as I would like, but as the other option is to drastically cut down on the level of detail I maintain in my posts, I would rather you find out later what I'm up to, and know exactly about all of the adventures that I have been having. Foremost in my mind is the fact that after PiM I have an eight-week internship in a small town where I can't imagine there is as much to do as there is in Munich. Also, I will be working in a lab every day and when I come home at night, I'm really home and don't have pesky homework assignments to worry about. Therefore I will have much more time for blogging and otherwise communicating with friends and family from back home.
So, please don't be alarmed when my blogging rate (and amount of staying in touch in general) drastically slows down - I'll pick it up again in July. Until then, know that I think of you often and hope you are all enjoying your summer as much as I am - and get ready, because once I have all this free time I'm sure I'll be bugging you all for news from home ;)
Sincerely,
The Wide-Eyed Wanderer
More and more it has come to my attention that Princeton in Munich is not Princeton in Petersburg, a perhaps self-evident conclusion, but with important implications. I actually have work to do here, I actually want to become fluent in the language, and particularly there is much in the city of Munich that I would love to experience instead of always sitting in my dorm in front of my computer. Therefore I give you ample warning that while I will most likely not cease altogether from maintaining this blog, the posts will be much fewer and farther between. This necessarily means that I will not be nearly so caught up in my activity as I would like, but as the other option is to drastically cut down on the level of detail I maintain in my posts, I would rather you find out later what I'm up to, and know exactly about all of the adventures that I have been having. Foremost in my mind is the fact that after PiM I have an eight-week internship in a small town where I can't imagine there is as much to do as there is in Munich. Also, I will be working in a lab every day and when I come home at night, I'm really home and don't have pesky homework assignments to worry about. Therefore I will have much more time for blogging and otherwise communicating with friends and family from back home.
So, please don't be alarmed when my blogging rate (and amount of staying in touch in general) drastically slows down - I'll pick it up again in July. Until then, know that I think of you often and hope you are all enjoying your summer as much as I am - and get ready, because once I have all this free time I'm sure I'll be bugging you all for news from home ;)
Sincerely,
The Wide-Eyed Wanderer
Monday, June 6, 2011
Celebrating the Holidays
Bavaria is a mostly catholic region of Germany, which means they have many holidays throughout the year and they take them very seriously. All stores and businesses are closed, which means that we don't have class. Thursday was one and we celebrated by spending the day at the Deutsche Museum. I woke up early, as I have been, in order to Skype a bit (with my college friends it works best if I wake up early, since 5am here is only 11pm on the East Coast). Afterwards I still had quite a bit of time before our 10:00 departure for the museum, so I continued investigating the various activities available in Munich. Some of the most interesting possibilities I found included the UFO-looking BMW museum (including potential tours of the factory!!), the firefighting museum, a puppet museum, a paleontology museum with lots of dinosaur bones, the "Crystal-rich" museum containing precious stones, and the "Center for Unusual Museums" which sounds just plain fun :D Most of the museums cost around 3€ and there is often a 1€ discount for students. I don't know how many I'll have the time or energy to visit, but I'll certainly tell about them when I do. In any case, the Deutsche Museum was fascinating enough in itself. It's more of a "touch and do" museum than a "look and read" museum - and it covers six floors!! WAY more than can possibly be seen in a day, as I found out. We got there around 10:30 and I was one of the last to leave when the museum closed at 5 (in fact, I had to be practically ushered out by the museum staff), and I probably didn't REALLY experience half of the exhibits. The museum is so large that it takes up an entire island all to itself. There is a main building, which we stayed in, but also several side museums and special exhibits in other buildings (for instance, a transport museum). There is just an overwhelming amount of knowledge in that museum. Fortunately many of the exhibits have explanations in both German and English, for although my German is good for everyday communication, it soon became apparent to me that I lacked any significant technical vocabulary of the kind that is used in a museum. There were entire exhibits where the plaques were all in German, with a few titles translated if I was lucky, and I felt helpless as I stood and looked at the various displays without the faintest idea of their significance. Just a sampling of the exhibits I saw in the museum (and remember, this isn't nearly everything) follows: electricity, motors/engines, power machinery, airplanes, space travel, shipping/sea travel, metalworking, lasers, welding, locks throughout history, mining, musical instruments, optics, magnetism, physics (yeah MAE!!), the "best of" 50's technology, the winners of the "German future" prize for the last ten years, nanotechnology, "new" technologies, tunneling, model trains, robotics, and wind/water power. Just a few of the exhibits I didn't get to include paper, glass-blowing, ceramics, textiles, photo/film technology, computers, microelectronics, agriculture, food technology, chronometry, astronomy, and the environment. I could spend a week in that museum and STILL not see everything, forget reading everything and understanding it (as I said, some exhibits have no English translations for the displays). My favorite exhibits would have to be mining, musical instruments, air travel, optics, and physics (of course). Mining was especially interesting because it was located two floors under the museum in a long, winding tunnel that made you feel like you were in an actual mine. The exhibits consisted of wax- or wood-figure reconstructions of miners working in reconstructed mine tunnels, and the exhibit covered everything from the ways the tunnels have been dug over the centuries to the various methods of extracting different valuable materials (coal, oil, precious metals) from the earth. I really prefer these "experiential" exhibits to a white room with displays lined up neatly in a row, so even though this was one of the places where there were no English display translations, so I can't tell you much more about mining now than before, it was definitely one of the highlights of the day. The musical instruments were interesting just to see the vast variety of ways in which people have made music over the centuries, from stringed to wind to percussive instruments. There was even one display that explained the making of a violin, which is quite complicated (I could have realized that but I had never really thought about it before). Aviation was cool just because of the massive size of the exhibit - but of course it would have to be that large in order to house so many airplanes from the past and the present! There were helicopters, gliders, and even a section of a 747 passenger jet!! I took lots of pictures in this exhibit for my dad, who is an avid WWII fan and especially of the battles fought in the air. That was one interesting thing about the Deutsche Museum - pictures were allowed everywhere as long as they were for personal use, in contrast to the museums in Russia where pictures were either forbidden or one had to purchase a ticket in order to be allowed to take them (which I never paid attention to, as it wasn't very strictly enforced ;]). Optics was cool because I've always liked optical illusions, but that was one of the exhibits that I encountered near the end of the day when I was just trying to cover as much ground as possible, so I only skimmed it. They did have a couple of chambers with mirrors at many different angles so that when you stepped into them a dozen yous appeared at once, and that made for some really interesting photos :) Physics of course was particularly intriguing because so many of the experiments were replicas of the famous, landmark research that we had talked about in so many of my classes. They had exhibits on drag and lift, tension and compression and torsion. It is so unfortunate that I arrived here at 4:30! There was enough in that one exhibit alone to keep me occupied the entire day, and I was loathe to leave. I don't know whether I'll even have another chance to go to the museum, and this time it will have to be on my own bill (Princeton bought our tickets for this day), but I just might... as I told you, there was much that I didn't have a chance to see.
The only other event of note this day occurred on the way to the Deutsche Museum. As I've said, the security on the trains is fairly lax, especially for the Germans' reputation. Members of the group speculate that it might be worth it never to buy a ticket, since the police (or inspectors) are seen so infrequently on the trains checking for valid tickets, and none of the entrances to the train station REQUIRE that you have a valid ticket to come through. However, as luck would have it, we were about halfway to our stop when a couple of uniformed men boarded the train and started asking to see tickets. A couple of the girls in our group had forgotten theirs (after all, we had only gotten them the day before) and they were quickly escorted off the train with one of the graduate students following behind to make sure all was communicated clearly. I imagine it would be quite terrifying to be pulled off the train in such a manner, never mind the sting to the pocket of having to pay 40€ for your neglectfulness, so I don't think the risk is worth it for me this summer - that's just the kind of adventure I hope to avoid. Not to mention Princeton bought our monthly passes that will take us just about anywhere we could ever care to go, so why be foolish?
Friday it was back to classes, and it's really starting to hit me how much vocabulary we really need to learn in order to become truly well-versed in German. I should be taking time to memorize at least several dozen words each day, but when you don't use them they quickly slip again out of your memory, and the necessary motivation isn't always there. Lunch all week for me was an apple and a cheese-and-butter sandwich, but I'm often hungry by the 10:30 break and eat it then, so I need another little something after classes to tide me over until suppertime. This day I bought a yogurt-filled pastry that was especially delicious, if a bit sweet to be called lunch. I think that's the thing I've liked the most about German food so far is the pastries, though I don't think I would have thought of that as a typical German food before I came here. They're also not too expensive - you can easily get a cinnamon roll or Danish as big as both hands for only 1,50€.
Friday's activity was a visit to the store "Globetrotter" - a kind of giant German L.L. Bean that sells everything from climbing gear to canoes, sleeping bags to sightseeing guides. Like the Deutsche Museum, this is a "try it and see" store - there is a cold room for testing out jackets, a rain room for wet-weather gear, a tightrope and climbing wall on the third floor, and even a pool where you can test out a kayak or canoe! The structure of the store is a giant donut with the pool at the bottom of the hole and railings around the hole on each floor. The climbing wall is the glass surrounding the hole of the third floor, which makes it a little unnerving when you look through the wall that you're climbing and see the water four floors below. Naturally I looked at everything and climbed and tightroped (I was the only one out of the group to make it all the way across - twice!!), and though I didn't enter the cold room, rain room, or pool, some of the group members did. I was most interested in the hiking boots, and felt quite satisfied with myself when I saw that the prices hovered around 150€ as I remembered my new Vasque boots, bought on Amazon for $85 just the month prior. In the boots section there was a device with several different types of terrain (rocky, shale, smooth) at different inclinations so that potential boot-owners could test out the feel of their new footwear on different types of ground. There was also a display where several of the different kinds of boots sold at the store had been sliced in half so that the different layers of the boot structure were visible, from the thick outer sole to the stiff shank to the padded insole. Even though there was so much to see and do in Globetrotter, it didn't take me too terribly long to satisfy my curiosity, so Dan H and I walked back to the train station and returned to the Wohnheim together. Along the way we discussed the pros and cons of cooking with the group (he tends to cook with several other Princeton students, while I always prepare my food alone). The way he described the propensity of people to show up when the food was prepared and disappear after eating a bit of it made me glad that I was so independent, though I do sometimes wish for company while I prepare my meals, if only to have another source of ideas for food (even wandering the grocery store hasn't tended to yield very many inspirations). By the time we reached the Wohnheim again I was sweaty and ready to take a shower in preparation for my excursion to the ballet. One of the incredibly nice things about our living accommodations is the fact that they are cleaned by the staff once a week, and Thursday is the day for the third floor, where I live. However, since Thursday was a holiday this week, they had the day off and instead were cleaning the third-floor rooms when I returned. They were a few doors down from me and by a quick inspection of my still-full trash cans I determined that they had not yet reached my room. After deliberating I decided that I could most likely take a shower and be safely finished by the time they came to my door. I was unfortunately mistaken, as I had no sooner climbed out of the shower and reentered my bedroom, wrapped in a towel, when I heard the buzzer sound and a key in the door. My desperate cry of "Moment, bitte!" thankfully stopped them from entering and I quickly threw on a dress, grabbed my dinner supplies, and retreated to the communal kitchen so that I wouldn't feel awkward watching them clean my room (no one but myself has ever cleaned any room that I've lived in; my mother stopped vacuuming my carpet at home once I was old enough to push the machine myself and I have always tended to be one of the cleanest people in any group of girls that I've lived with).
While I was reheating the last of the leftover pasta-chicken-corn-spaghetti sauce casserole of a few days prior for my supper, I began to wonder about the healthiness of my diet. In particular, for any of you who have been watching the news, perhaps you have heard about the E.coli epidemic that's going around. The CDC isn't yet sure what the cause of it is, but several dozen people either living or traveling in northern Germany have contracted the bacteria, and a few have even died from complications that arose. Tomatoes, cucumbers, and lettuce are most suspect, so much so that they can hardly be found in most restaurants in Germany at present. Being responsible for my own food (not to mention well-being), naturally I was a bit concerned about my risk of encountering the bacteria, although we are in one of the most southern regions of Germany. I have since spoken with my mother (who is a Physician's Assistant and my general go-to for all questions medical) and she has assured me that as long as I am meticulous with washing my vegetables with hot water before eating them raw, or cooking them, and I keep my cooking area/utensils clean, I should be fine. This becomes a rather interesting question in a student-inhabited dorm with communal kitchens which are never as clean as I would like them, but I'll pray hard (and ask you to, as well) that I am spared that particular bit of excitement during my stay in this country. As some of you may have also figured out, my internship is in a small town in North-Central Germany; however, there I will have my own kitchen as part of my living arrangements so the cleanliness will be to a much higher standard and more under my control. All in all, I think I have relatively little to worry about, but a bit of spiritual protection never hurt anyone, so if you happen to think of it, pray for my health and safety, please.
Another reason why I hurried back to the dorm so quickly on Friday was that a group of four of us had tickets to the ballet that night. We went to see Dornröschen, which means "Little Rose Thorn," better known in America as Sleeping Beauty. The ballet took place at the Bavarian State Opera House, which, while not nearly as grand as the Mariinsky Theater in St. Petersburg, was nonetheless impressive. I was very pleased and a little surprised that our tickets only cost us 7€, until I saw where our seats were. We had standing places in the fourth balcony; however, we still weren't the furthest away from the stage; there was one balcony above us and we were fairly near the center of the audience so we had a good view of the entire stage. Standing up for three hours is one thing; doing it at the end of a long day while jet-lagged and having spent six hours standing and walking through a museum the day prior is quite another and is many times more demanding, trust me. The ballet was beautiful, I recognized the music from a holiday CD of Tchaikovsky that I have, the costumes were fantastic, and though it was a bit warm in the theater with so many people there, it wasn't unbearably so, so all in all the evening was anything but a waste. This was my second ballet, the first being last summer seeing "Swan Lake" at the Mariinsky, and I tried to appreciate the art for what it is, but I did find it a bit difficult, which I attribute to my lack of exposure to fine art (growing up in Brewer, Maine our cultural options were always limited, and my parents would much rather take a family hike than a night out to the theater). The young boys and girls who took part in the performance (the boys couldn't have been older than 5 or 6) particularly delighted me with their grace and precision, and a seat so far away helped me really appreciate the coordination of the entire picture, all ten to thirty dancers who would be on stage at any one time. I was, in any case, quite happy to return to the Wohnheim at 10:30 after the performance, and I slept very well that night.
Saturday we had class again, because of the holiday, and it was certainly the toughest day I've had here yet. After class I was tired and bored and cranky and didn't really want to do much of anything. No one had any specific plans for the afternoon, so I returned to the Wohnheim and tried to muster up the motivation to study without much success (especially since we didn't have class on Sunday, at least). The weather was much improved from the clouds and rain of earlier in the week, and I felt that I should really take advantage of the sunshine while we had it, so I decided to go exploring in a nearby park. The park contains one of the many palaces belonging to the Bavarian royal family of the latter half of the 1800s, Schloss Nymphenburg, the birthplace of King Ludwig II, whose other palace-masterpiece I would visit the next day. I grabbed my iPod, put my camera and German reading-book in my backpack, and set off. My mood was immediately lightened by listening to my favorite songs and getting some exercise, and as a particular bonus I also discovered where the closest grocery store to the Wohnheim was located. The park was beautiful and though I really had no desire to go inside the palace (I saw enough palace interiors while in Russia) the grounds were becoming enough. I took several pictures, especially of the fountain in front of the palace (beside which a large male swan was obligingly standing and posing for the tourists, though not without hope of a morsel or two of bread) and the sundry cool green paths through the woods that cover most of the park. I eventually found a bench in a sunny spot and sat down to do my reading assignment (we're reading Franz Kafka's Metamorphosis, and unfortunately I'm really not getting into it yet, but more on that later), which took only about an hour since I determined to do it without any vocabulary aids to see how much I could understand from context (I underlined all of the unfamiliar words and looked them up later). By then an ominous-looking cloud bank had rolled in to cover the sun, so I quickly wended my way further through the woods to an exit and returned to the Wohnheim, stopping on the way at the grocery store to pick up a few items, including some carrots from Israel (in the interest of a more balanced diet I'm willing to take my chances with E.coli). The beautiful and tranquil woods paths made me long more than ever to have a bike with which to explore them, though I have determined with some certainty that it will be both less expensive and more convenient to wait to purchase one until I arrive in Clausthal for my internship, so I will just have to deny myself that pleasure. One extremely interesting thing about this park is that it is completely surrounded by a wall, with occasional gates to allow entrance and exit. However, these gates remain closed even during the day when the park is open - one must approach and open them oneself. It sounds simple enough, but I found in myself a strange reluctance to approach a closed gate, as though the presence of a door automatically in my mind signified a closed way. I think this is an American thing, though I could certainly be mistaken. The locals certainly didn't have a problem with walking up to and trying the gate, but when I saw that all of the entrances LOOKED closed my first instinct was to keep walking past them, even though upon closer inspection none of the bolts were drawn. I never realized what a law-abiding citizen-sheep I am!
Much encouraged, I finally returned to the Wohnheim in the evening, prepared my supper, and worked on my long-overdue blog entries. I also Skyped my mother again, though the connection was still poor (I haven't had nearly as many problems Skyping my boyfriend, I don't know whether it's the slow internet on my mom's end or the choice of timing that makes the difference) and we had to finally resort to text. Afterwards my outlook was much brighter and I hope that the bad mood was just a combination of jetlag and too much activity and a passing phenomenon. Overall my transition to Germany has been much smoother than that of last year in Russia, which is probably due to several factors (most of which you can probably guess if you read that part of my blog) and I really am enjoying myself here and feel that I'm taking much better advantage of the culture. Let's hope I can keep it up!!
The only other event of note this day occurred on the way to the Deutsche Museum. As I've said, the security on the trains is fairly lax, especially for the Germans' reputation. Members of the group speculate that it might be worth it never to buy a ticket, since the police (or inspectors) are seen so infrequently on the trains checking for valid tickets, and none of the entrances to the train station REQUIRE that you have a valid ticket to come through. However, as luck would have it, we were about halfway to our stop when a couple of uniformed men boarded the train and started asking to see tickets. A couple of the girls in our group had forgotten theirs (after all, we had only gotten them the day before) and they were quickly escorted off the train with one of the graduate students following behind to make sure all was communicated clearly. I imagine it would be quite terrifying to be pulled off the train in such a manner, never mind the sting to the pocket of having to pay 40€ for your neglectfulness, so I don't think the risk is worth it for me this summer - that's just the kind of adventure I hope to avoid. Not to mention Princeton bought our monthly passes that will take us just about anywhere we could ever care to go, so why be foolish?
Friday it was back to classes, and it's really starting to hit me how much vocabulary we really need to learn in order to become truly well-versed in German. I should be taking time to memorize at least several dozen words each day, but when you don't use them they quickly slip again out of your memory, and the necessary motivation isn't always there. Lunch all week for me was an apple and a cheese-and-butter sandwich, but I'm often hungry by the 10:30 break and eat it then, so I need another little something after classes to tide me over until suppertime. This day I bought a yogurt-filled pastry that was especially delicious, if a bit sweet to be called lunch. I think that's the thing I've liked the most about German food so far is the pastries, though I don't think I would have thought of that as a typical German food before I came here. They're also not too expensive - you can easily get a cinnamon roll or Danish as big as both hands for only 1,50€.
Friday's activity was a visit to the store "Globetrotter" - a kind of giant German L.L. Bean that sells everything from climbing gear to canoes, sleeping bags to sightseeing guides. Like the Deutsche Museum, this is a "try it and see" store - there is a cold room for testing out jackets, a rain room for wet-weather gear, a tightrope and climbing wall on the third floor, and even a pool where you can test out a kayak or canoe! The structure of the store is a giant donut with the pool at the bottom of the hole and railings around the hole on each floor. The climbing wall is the glass surrounding the hole of the third floor, which makes it a little unnerving when you look through the wall that you're climbing and see the water four floors below. Naturally I looked at everything and climbed and tightroped (I was the only one out of the group to make it all the way across - twice!!), and though I didn't enter the cold room, rain room, or pool, some of the group members did. I was most interested in the hiking boots, and felt quite satisfied with myself when I saw that the prices hovered around 150€ as I remembered my new Vasque boots, bought on Amazon for $85 just the month prior. In the boots section there was a device with several different types of terrain (rocky, shale, smooth) at different inclinations so that potential boot-owners could test out the feel of their new footwear on different types of ground. There was also a display where several of the different kinds of boots sold at the store had been sliced in half so that the different layers of the boot structure were visible, from the thick outer sole to the stiff shank to the padded insole. Even though there was so much to see and do in Globetrotter, it didn't take me too terribly long to satisfy my curiosity, so Dan H and I walked back to the train station and returned to the Wohnheim together. Along the way we discussed the pros and cons of cooking with the group (he tends to cook with several other Princeton students, while I always prepare my food alone). The way he described the propensity of people to show up when the food was prepared and disappear after eating a bit of it made me glad that I was so independent, though I do sometimes wish for company while I prepare my meals, if only to have another source of ideas for food (even wandering the grocery store hasn't tended to yield very many inspirations). By the time we reached the Wohnheim again I was sweaty and ready to take a shower in preparation for my excursion to the ballet. One of the incredibly nice things about our living accommodations is the fact that they are cleaned by the staff once a week, and Thursday is the day for the third floor, where I live. However, since Thursday was a holiday this week, they had the day off and instead were cleaning the third-floor rooms when I returned. They were a few doors down from me and by a quick inspection of my still-full trash cans I determined that they had not yet reached my room. After deliberating I decided that I could most likely take a shower and be safely finished by the time they came to my door. I was unfortunately mistaken, as I had no sooner climbed out of the shower and reentered my bedroom, wrapped in a towel, when I heard the buzzer sound and a key in the door. My desperate cry of "Moment, bitte!" thankfully stopped them from entering and I quickly threw on a dress, grabbed my dinner supplies, and retreated to the communal kitchen so that I wouldn't feel awkward watching them clean my room (no one but myself has ever cleaned any room that I've lived in; my mother stopped vacuuming my carpet at home once I was old enough to push the machine myself and I have always tended to be one of the cleanest people in any group of girls that I've lived with).
While I was reheating the last of the leftover pasta-chicken-corn-spaghetti sauce casserole of a few days prior for my supper, I began to wonder about the healthiness of my diet. In particular, for any of you who have been watching the news, perhaps you have heard about the E.coli epidemic that's going around. The CDC isn't yet sure what the cause of it is, but several dozen people either living or traveling in northern Germany have contracted the bacteria, and a few have even died from complications that arose. Tomatoes, cucumbers, and lettuce are most suspect, so much so that they can hardly be found in most restaurants in Germany at present. Being responsible for my own food (not to mention well-being), naturally I was a bit concerned about my risk of encountering the bacteria, although we are in one of the most southern regions of Germany. I have since spoken with my mother (who is a Physician's Assistant and my general go-to for all questions medical) and she has assured me that as long as I am meticulous with washing my vegetables with hot water before eating them raw, or cooking them, and I keep my cooking area/utensils clean, I should be fine. This becomes a rather interesting question in a student-inhabited dorm with communal kitchens which are never as clean as I would like them, but I'll pray hard (and ask you to, as well) that I am spared that particular bit of excitement during my stay in this country. As some of you may have also figured out, my internship is in a small town in North-Central Germany; however, there I will have my own kitchen as part of my living arrangements so the cleanliness will be to a much higher standard and more under my control. All in all, I think I have relatively little to worry about, but a bit of spiritual protection never hurt anyone, so if you happen to think of it, pray for my health and safety, please.
Another reason why I hurried back to the dorm so quickly on Friday was that a group of four of us had tickets to the ballet that night. We went to see Dornröschen, which means "Little Rose Thorn," better known in America as Sleeping Beauty. The ballet took place at the Bavarian State Opera House, which, while not nearly as grand as the Mariinsky Theater in St. Petersburg, was nonetheless impressive. I was very pleased and a little surprised that our tickets only cost us 7€, until I saw where our seats were. We had standing places in the fourth balcony; however, we still weren't the furthest away from the stage; there was one balcony above us and we were fairly near the center of the audience so we had a good view of the entire stage. Standing up for three hours is one thing; doing it at the end of a long day while jet-lagged and having spent six hours standing and walking through a museum the day prior is quite another and is many times more demanding, trust me. The ballet was beautiful, I recognized the music from a holiday CD of Tchaikovsky that I have, the costumes were fantastic, and though it was a bit warm in the theater with so many people there, it wasn't unbearably so, so all in all the evening was anything but a waste. This was my second ballet, the first being last summer seeing "Swan Lake" at the Mariinsky, and I tried to appreciate the art for what it is, but I did find it a bit difficult, which I attribute to my lack of exposure to fine art (growing up in Brewer, Maine our cultural options were always limited, and my parents would much rather take a family hike than a night out to the theater). The young boys and girls who took part in the performance (the boys couldn't have been older than 5 or 6) particularly delighted me with their grace and precision, and a seat so far away helped me really appreciate the coordination of the entire picture, all ten to thirty dancers who would be on stage at any one time. I was, in any case, quite happy to return to the Wohnheim at 10:30 after the performance, and I slept very well that night.
Saturday we had class again, because of the holiday, and it was certainly the toughest day I've had here yet. After class I was tired and bored and cranky and didn't really want to do much of anything. No one had any specific plans for the afternoon, so I returned to the Wohnheim and tried to muster up the motivation to study without much success (especially since we didn't have class on Sunday, at least). The weather was much improved from the clouds and rain of earlier in the week, and I felt that I should really take advantage of the sunshine while we had it, so I decided to go exploring in a nearby park. The park contains one of the many palaces belonging to the Bavarian royal family of the latter half of the 1800s, Schloss Nymphenburg, the birthplace of King Ludwig II, whose other palace-masterpiece I would visit the next day. I grabbed my iPod, put my camera and German reading-book in my backpack, and set off. My mood was immediately lightened by listening to my favorite songs and getting some exercise, and as a particular bonus I also discovered where the closest grocery store to the Wohnheim was located. The park was beautiful and though I really had no desire to go inside the palace (I saw enough palace interiors while in Russia) the grounds were becoming enough. I took several pictures, especially of the fountain in front of the palace (beside which a large male swan was obligingly standing and posing for the tourists, though not without hope of a morsel or two of bread) and the sundry cool green paths through the woods that cover most of the park. I eventually found a bench in a sunny spot and sat down to do my reading assignment (we're reading Franz Kafka's Metamorphosis, and unfortunately I'm really not getting into it yet, but more on that later), which took only about an hour since I determined to do it without any vocabulary aids to see how much I could understand from context (I underlined all of the unfamiliar words and looked them up later). By then an ominous-looking cloud bank had rolled in to cover the sun, so I quickly wended my way further through the woods to an exit and returned to the Wohnheim, stopping on the way at the grocery store to pick up a few items, including some carrots from Israel (in the interest of a more balanced diet I'm willing to take my chances with E.coli). The beautiful and tranquil woods paths made me long more than ever to have a bike with which to explore them, though I have determined with some certainty that it will be both less expensive and more convenient to wait to purchase one until I arrive in Clausthal for my internship, so I will just have to deny myself that pleasure. One extremely interesting thing about this park is that it is completely surrounded by a wall, with occasional gates to allow entrance and exit. However, these gates remain closed even during the day when the park is open - one must approach and open them oneself. It sounds simple enough, but I found in myself a strange reluctance to approach a closed gate, as though the presence of a door automatically in my mind signified a closed way. I think this is an American thing, though I could certainly be mistaken. The locals certainly didn't have a problem with walking up to and trying the gate, but when I saw that all of the entrances LOOKED closed my first instinct was to keep walking past them, even though upon closer inspection none of the bolts were drawn. I never realized what a law-abiding citizen-sheep I am!
Much encouraged, I finally returned to the Wohnheim in the evening, prepared my supper, and worked on my long-overdue blog entries. I also Skyped my mother again, though the connection was still poor (I haven't had nearly as many problems Skyping my boyfriend, I don't know whether it's the slow internet on my mom's end or the choice of timing that makes the difference) and we had to finally resort to text. Afterwards my outlook was much brighter and I hope that the bad mood was just a combination of jetlag and too much activity and a passing phenomenon. Overall my transition to Germany has been much smoother than that of last year in Russia, which is probably due to several factors (most of which you can probably guess if you read that part of my blog) and I really am enjoying myself here and feel that I'm taking much better advantage of the culture. Let's hope I can keep it up!!
Saturday, June 4, 2011
Finding a Routine
So, I'm starting to settle down into a daily routine here, which is always good. I tend to get tired early and therefore go to bed before 9 which means that I can wake up between 5 and 6am, which is nice because it gives me ample time before class to do things like check email, blog, do my homework or Bible study, and perhaps Skype my more night=owl-ish friends. Class is Monday through Friday 9-12:30 with a 30-minute break at 10:30. I eat breakfast in the Wohnheim, usually cereal (so far it's been cornflakes but I'm looking for inexpensive alternatives), yogurt, and sometimes also toast with butter. I also pack my lunch, a cheese-and-butter sandwich and an apple, though I often also supplement that with a pastry or something after class (I know, I'm eating so healthy, right? :P). There's usually a group going somewhere and doing something in the afternoon, and depending on their choice of activity and the weather I either go with them, go shopping, or just go back to the Wohnheim to do more homework/email/blogging until suppertime. I've made my own supper every night thus far, and it's usually pasta something. I try to get all the food groups in by cooking chicken to go in it or adding canned vegetables, but pasta is one of the cheapest and easiest things to prepare, so it's a staple for this poor college student trying to save her money for more exciting things like museums and day trips. The nice thing about preparing my own meals is that I eat when I'm hungry, a strong contrast to last summer for those of you who have read the first part of my blog where meal timing was a frequent complaint. After supper I go back to homework and such, unless there's an evening activity planned, which I tend to participate in much less frequently than the afternoon excursions. Finally around 8 or 9 I'm tired enough to go to bed, and what time I go to bed generally determines how early I set my alarm for the next morning. I try to get a solid 8=9 hours of sleep every night; it doesn't make any sense to get overtired and not be able to fully enjoy all of the opportunities we have here in Munich.
So, Tuesday was the first day of class. The group is split into three classes: one group of German 105 and two of German 107. In my group are some from my German 102-5 class in the spring (whom I already know) and several from the other class whom I had never met before, a good mix. In total there are twelve people in my class, though there are supposed to be thirteen - I'm not really sure why one of the students never ended up coming. The most interesting story within our group was one girl whose passport apparently expired a couple of months ago without her realizing it...? She had to expedite a new passport and catch the next possible flight to Munich, whether at her own expense or the arranged ticket was able to be cancelled I'm not sure. I'm still a little confused as to how, when planning to travel out of the country, one neglects to notice the expiration date on one's passport, but I suppose it's a simple enough oversight especially if you don't travel often. She's here now, in any case, but I don't envy her having missed two days of class and traveling here alone.
Our teacher is a grey-haired man, probably in his sixties - actually, he reminds me startlingly of Mr. Girodet, my French/Spanish teacher in high school, although he's German and not French. If you took Mr. Girodet with all his quirks and teaching methods and exchanged all the quintessentially French qualities that he has for equally stereotypical German ones, I'm pretty sure you would have Professor Földeak. (Though that would be a substantial difference, considering the obvious contrasts between French and German personalities...) Professor Földeak is a linguist and he studied English in college, a refreshing contrast from my PiP professors who barely spoke anything but Russian. He is very interested in the etymology of the vocabulary we are using and often links the German history of a word to its English counterpart, which is quite helpful for understanding and remembering what we're learning. His method focuses more on learning words in context rather than giving us lists of vocabulary to commit to memory, which isn't the way I've learned most languages, but I see how it would be helpful. We have pieces of yellow paper on which we are supposed to write important new vocab in the sentences he gives us. Our homework every night is to memorize these sentences so that we learn the new vocabulary, and every day we spend the first hour or so reviewing these sentences. It works most of the time, but for some completely new vocabulary the simple sentences he gives as examples aren't enough to cement in my memory the meaning of the words, so I also keep a notebook in a more traditional "dictionary" style where I write down the new word and its English translation. I tend more to make flashcards on Alek and study them instead of memorizing the sentences, though I do make sure to familiarize myself with those as well. On the first day of class we started reviewing basic things like common verbs and question words, so that Professor Földeak could get a sense for our knowledge level, and I realized just how much that we had studied during the academic year I had already forgotten in the intervening month, particularly the past-tense forms that we don't tend to use so often in conversation (a surprising proportion of conversation refers to the present). If I was really motivated I would go through the reference book that I brought with me and review all of the grammatical topics with which we are supposed to be familiar, but if you can keep a secret, this "intensive" language program really isn't so much, and I could and possibly will squeeze by with knowing the bare minimum and bluffing the rest. Call it a sacrifice for the sake of cultural education - I can't very well experience Germany if I'm always in my room studying, right? This is, after all, an immersion program... Overall the work is not too much and the class is interesting, though after coming off a hard year at Princeton I'm a little burned out and I sometimes find it hard to muster the motivation to study in the evenings. Hopefully either this will pass or I will find a good balance so that I don't resent my studies, but can keep the end goal of becoming fluent in German in mind. I would say the most advanced of us are basically conversationally fluent in that we can say most of the banal, ordinary, everyday things we want to say to each other in German, but there are all kinds of things we don't talk about because we don't have the vocabulary, and reading instructions or understanding native speakers is still sometimes difficult if you don't know what they are supposed to be saying (context clues save my LIFE, which I'm pretty sure is the only reason I ever thought I could speak Russian to any degree).
One big example is Christian vocabulary - having grown up in a churchgoing family, "religious" words were such a part of my life that I never realized how much specialized vocabulary we use until I started trying to think about it in another language. My very best friend gave me a German version of the Bible last Christmas, so of course I brought it along, and I've been reading Colossians. Even though I know basically what it says I was really shocked by the number of words (mostly nouns) that I didn't recognize, so I started making a list of them and discovered that they are mostly very basic words that I would use in any discussion of religion/faith - hope, love, faith, sin, forgiveness, grace, gospel, minister, etc. I'm really enjoying studying this vocabulary, though, and hope to have the opportunity to attend a German church one of these Sundays to see how much I can recognize. I researched and unfortunately all of the several Calvary Chapels (the group of churches I attend, and one of which I was fortunate enough to find in St. Petersburg last year) in Germany are at least an hour's drive from both Munich and Clausthal, where I will be for July/August doing my internship. The leader of the Princeton in Munich program, Jamie Rankin, is a strong Christian who plays the piano both at PEF and Westerly Road Church back in Princeton, so of course he knows of a good church here in Munich, but since most of the group is (naturally) not interested in attending church on a Sunday morning we've planned an excursion to Neuschwanstein (the castle that inspired Disneys' trademark Sleeping Beauty castle) which leaves at 7:45am, and next week we'll be in Berlin for our mid-term excursion, so I'll only get to attend once at most. Hopefully I'll be able to find a good Bible-preaching Evangelical Christian church in Clausthal-Zellerfeld to attend.
Let me tell you about my first week of classes, and then you'll see what I meant about there being excursions or activities of some type every day. Tuesday was the first day of class, and afterwards I had a couple of errands to run, primarily equipping my cell phone with a German SIM card. Unlike PiP, PiM does not make cell phones mandatory for everyone, which I still haven't decided how I feel about. On one hand it's easier because not everyone has to buy a $30 cell phone that they'll only use for a month and can spend their money more freely on what they want, and it certainly makes for more adventures, but on the other hand it makes communication between members of the group difficult if not downright frustrating. This was especially true during the first three days before our monthly passes went into effect (now we are basically independent, which I like very much as most of the time I prefer to do my own thing rather than stick with the group). In any case, I both wanted an opportunity to use the phone I bought in Russia again and wanted to be able to communicate with other members of the group/the group leaders, so I went to vodafone and bought a pre-paid SIM card. When it comes to cellular phone service, the Europeans know what they're doing. Instead of pricey and confusing monthly plans, cell phones can be as simple as buying a SIM card for 10€ and adding money to your account whenever you need to. Calls within the network are 0,05€/min and to other networks 0,15€/min. Texts cost 0,19€ each, and I'm not sure if vodafone works like the Russian networks in that incoming calls are free (but I rather hope so). In any case my Russian phone was unlocked (thankfully) so I bought a SIM card and put 15€ on my phone, which will most likely last me through the whole summer (and it's nice to have a cell phone just in case of emergencies, especially since I usually do my own thing and will not be with a group during my internship). So after successfully navigating that purchase (by myself and in German, I might add, though not without many blank stares and pantomiming...) I returned to the Wohnheim to meet the group for our next adventure. Since Tuesday was the last day of the month and our monthly passes were only good for the two inner zones of the city, I suggested that we visit one of the two large lakes in the region (Starnbergersee or Ammersee) while we could without purchasing extra tickets, and especially because the weather was very nice here on Tuesday. So a majority of us decided to take a trip to Starnbergersee, which was only about 30 minutes by S-Bahn from the Wohnheim. It made me glad I had brought my swimming suit (I considered leaving it since I only swam once while in Russia last year). The lake was nice as promised, and the snow-topped Alps were faintly visible at the southern end, but any visions we had of sandy beaches lined with umbrella chairs were sadly disappointed. The only swimming area we could find was a stretch of rocky shore with a dock that stretched a few dozen feet into the water, a mile or two down the shore from the train station. However, the important part was swimming, so most of us (mostly boys) eagerly derobed and rushed into the water. In some strange lapse of forethought I had neglected to put on my swimsuit while still at the Wohnheim, and changing at the swimming area was an interesting challenge. There were no easily-accessible changing rooms and the nearest bathrooms that I knew of were nearly a mile down the road back toward the train station. However, there were plenty of trees and walls and buildings around, so I just had to be quick and creative about it. Unfortunately my 16x30" travel towel was of no use in this matter, so I borrowed a female friend and a full-sized towel and snuck off behind a tree. I had an interesting close call when another member of the group unwittingly wandered over, but crisis was averted and I was soon running down the dock into the water, safely and modestly covered. The water was cold!!! And this is coming from a girl who lives in Maine, so I know what cold water is. I've been swimming in the ocean in May and in snowmelt rivers in April, so I have felt cold water. This wasn't nearly THAT cold, but it was certainly chillier than expected. I half-heartedly paddled a few hundred yards away from shore but the ominous-looking clouds on the other side of the lake and the lack of willing company discouraged me from a true long-distance swim. So I contented myself with standing in the shallows and observing the multitudes of small fish which swam around me in circles, occasionally venturing close enough to brush me with a tail. I had my goggles, of course, and a few times I dove under and swam amongst the fish, which always kept just out of reach but didn't seem otherwise too bothered by my presence. Soon the rumbles of the promised thunderstorm reached our ears and we (I, at least - most people were shivering) reluctantly clambered out of the water and dried off. We trotted back to the train station rather more quickly than we had come and returned to the Wohnheim without getting wet, if barely. I then turned my attention to making supper, which was an improvised combination of instant potatoes and instant soup (but still pretty good ;]). I was surprisingly tired, so though I had grand ambitions of writing long emails and blogging and doing my homework, I ended up going to bed at 8 and planning to do it all in the morning when I would be fresher and more efficient.
I did end up getting up at 5 and getting a great deal done before class, almost at the expense of my punctuality. I posted my blog entry at 8:33 and rushed off to the train station - it takes a little more than 20 minutes to get from the Wohnheim to the Institute on a normal day and Wednesday was gloomy and rainy all day. The most interesting part of class was when our professor offered to buy us ballet and opera tickets and claimed that he could do so in about ten minutes - whoever had interest gave him 10€ for the ticket and in the middle of class, after setting us to begin a grammar exercise, he slipped out to buy the tickets. He tends to do that - disappear with little or no explanation in the middle of class, almost in the middle of a sentence - usually he comes back right away, because he just has copies to make or something. This time he said ten minutes, but he actually didn't return for FORTY - and by the time he did, class was nearly over so all he could do was give us our homework for the next day (I didn't really mind). After class I went to explore a store near the Institute that had caught my eye - it was called "Euroshop". Turns out it is just what it sounds like - the European equivalent of a dollar store. EVERYTHING is one Euro - and there's some pretty good stuff there! Not just because 1€ = $1.42, either. I'm sure I'll be back to that store many times this month. :) Then it was back to the Wohnheim, where I spent the rest of the day in frustrated attempts to call home - the weather being bad both here and in Maine, my Skype calls with Mom were nothing more than an exercise in frustration, and other friends whom I tried to contact weren't available. I eventually gave up and began researching activities in Munich that would potentially interest me, in hopes of not leaving this city feeling like I had wasted my time here or not seen all the things I wanted to see. The best discovery which followed from this exercise was that most museums in the city are quite inexpensive for students, and a few are even free! Now I have lots more ideas for adventures, and whether I can find companions with which to share my experiences or not, I will be sure to at least inform you well of the ups and downs.
So, Tuesday was the first day of class. The group is split into three classes: one group of German 105 and two of German 107. In my group are some from my German 102-5 class in the spring (whom I already know) and several from the other class whom I had never met before, a good mix. In total there are twelve people in my class, though there are supposed to be thirteen - I'm not really sure why one of the students never ended up coming. The most interesting story within our group was one girl whose passport apparently expired a couple of months ago without her realizing it...? She had to expedite a new passport and catch the next possible flight to Munich, whether at her own expense or the arranged ticket was able to be cancelled I'm not sure. I'm still a little confused as to how, when planning to travel out of the country, one neglects to notice the expiration date on one's passport, but I suppose it's a simple enough oversight especially if you don't travel often. She's here now, in any case, but I don't envy her having missed two days of class and traveling here alone.
Our teacher is a grey-haired man, probably in his sixties - actually, he reminds me startlingly of Mr. Girodet, my French/Spanish teacher in high school, although he's German and not French. If you took Mr. Girodet with all his quirks and teaching methods and exchanged all the quintessentially French qualities that he has for equally stereotypical German ones, I'm pretty sure you would have Professor Földeak. (Though that would be a substantial difference, considering the obvious contrasts between French and German personalities...) Professor Földeak is a linguist and he studied English in college, a refreshing contrast from my PiP professors who barely spoke anything but Russian. He is very interested in the etymology of the vocabulary we are using and often links the German history of a word to its English counterpart, which is quite helpful for understanding and remembering what we're learning. His method focuses more on learning words in context rather than giving us lists of vocabulary to commit to memory, which isn't the way I've learned most languages, but I see how it would be helpful. We have pieces of yellow paper on which we are supposed to write important new vocab in the sentences he gives us. Our homework every night is to memorize these sentences so that we learn the new vocabulary, and every day we spend the first hour or so reviewing these sentences. It works most of the time, but for some completely new vocabulary the simple sentences he gives as examples aren't enough to cement in my memory the meaning of the words, so I also keep a notebook in a more traditional "dictionary" style where I write down the new word and its English translation. I tend more to make flashcards on Alek and study them instead of memorizing the sentences, though I do make sure to familiarize myself with those as well. On the first day of class we started reviewing basic things like common verbs and question words, so that Professor Földeak could get a sense for our knowledge level, and I realized just how much that we had studied during the academic year I had already forgotten in the intervening month, particularly the past-tense forms that we don't tend to use so often in conversation (a surprising proportion of conversation refers to the present). If I was really motivated I would go through the reference book that I brought with me and review all of the grammatical topics with which we are supposed to be familiar, but if you can keep a secret, this "intensive" language program really isn't so much, and I could and possibly will squeeze by with knowing the bare minimum and bluffing the rest. Call it a sacrifice for the sake of cultural education - I can't very well experience Germany if I'm always in my room studying, right? This is, after all, an immersion program... Overall the work is not too much and the class is interesting, though after coming off a hard year at Princeton I'm a little burned out and I sometimes find it hard to muster the motivation to study in the evenings. Hopefully either this will pass or I will find a good balance so that I don't resent my studies, but can keep the end goal of becoming fluent in German in mind. I would say the most advanced of us are basically conversationally fluent in that we can say most of the banal, ordinary, everyday things we want to say to each other in German, but there are all kinds of things we don't talk about because we don't have the vocabulary, and reading instructions or understanding native speakers is still sometimes difficult if you don't know what they are supposed to be saying (context clues save my LIFE, which I'm pretty sure is the only reason I ever thought I could speak Russian to any degree).
One big example is Christian vocabulary - having grown up in a churchgoing family, "religious" words were such a part of my life that I never realized how much specialized vocabulary we use until I started trying to think about it in another language. My very best friend gave me a German version of the Bible last Christmas, so of course I brought it along, and I've been reading Colossians. Even though I know basically what it says I was really shocked by the number of words (mostly nouns) that I didn't recognize, so I started making a list of them and discovered that they are mostly very basic words that I would use in any discussion of religion/faith - hope, love, faith, sin, forgiveness, grace, gospel, minister, etc. I'm really enjoying studying this vocabulary, though, and hope to have the opportunity to attend a German church one of these Sundays to see how much I can recognize. I researched and unfortunately all of the several Calvary Chapels (the group of churches I attend, and one of which I was fortunate enough to find in St. Petersburg last year) in Germany are at least an hour's drive from both Munich and Clausthal, where I will be for July/August doing my internship. The leader of the Princeton in Munich program, Jamie Rankin, is a strong Christian who plays the piano both at PEF and Westerly Road Church back in Princeton, so of course he knows of a good church here in Munich, but since most of the group is (naturally) not interested in attending church on a Sunday morning we've planned an excursion to Neuschwanstein (the castle that inspired Disneys' trademark Sleeping Beauty castle) which leaves at 7:45am, and next week we'll be in Berlin for our mid-term excursion, so I'll only get to attend once at most. Hopefully I'll be able to find a good Bible-preaching Evangelical Christian church in Clausthal-Zellerfeld to attend.
Let me tell you about my first week of classes, and then you'll see what I meant about there being excursions or activities of some type every day. Tuesday was the first day of class, and afterwards I had a couple of errands to run, primarily equipping my cell phone with a German SIM card. Unlike PiP, PiM does not make cell phones mandatory for everyone, which I still haven't decided how I feel about. On one hand it's easier because not everyone has to buy a $30 cell phone that they'll only use for a month and can spend their money more freely on what they want, and it certainly makes for more adventures, but on the other hand it makes communication between members of the group difficult if not downright frustrating. This was especially true during the first three days before our monthly passes went into effect (now we are basically independent, which I like very much as most of the time I prefer to do my own thing rather than stick with the group). In any case, I both wanted an opportunity to use the phone I bought in Russia again and wanted to be able to communicate with other members of the group/the group leaders, so I went to vodafone and bought a pre-paid SIM card. When it comes to cellular phone service, the Europeans know what they're doing. Instead of pricey and confusing monthly plans, cell phones can be as simple as buying a SIM card for 10€ and adding money to your account whenever you need to. Calls within the network are 0,05€/min and to other networks 0,15€/min. Texts cost 0,19€ each, and I'm not sure if vodafone works like the Russian networks in that incoming calls are free (but I rather hope so). In any case my Russian phone was unlocked (thankfully) so I bought a SIM card and put 15€ on my phone, which will most likely last me through the whole summer (and it's nice to have a cell phone just in case of emergencies, especially since I usually do my own thing and will not be with a group during my internship). So after successfully navigating that purchase (by myself and in German, I might add, though not without many blank stares and pantomiming...) I returned to the Wohnheim to meet the group for our next adventure. Since Tuesday was the last day of the month and our monthly passes were only good for the two inner zones of the city, I suggested that we visit one of the two large lakes in the region (Starnbergersee or Ammersee) while we could without purchasing extra tickets, and especially because the weather was very nice here on Tuesday. So a majority of us decided to take a trip to Starnbergersee, which was only about 30 minutes by S-Bahn from the Wohnheim. It made me glad I had brought my swimming suit (I considered leaving it since I only swam once while in Russia last year). The lake was nice as promised, and the snow-topped Alps were faintly visible at the southern end, but any visions we had of sandy beaches lined with umbrella chairs were sadly disappointed. The only swimming area we could find was a stretch of rocky shore with a dock that stretched a few dozen feet into the water, a mile or two down the shore from the train station. However, the important part was swimming, so most of us (mostly boys) eagerly derobed and rushed into the water. In some strange lapse of forethought I had neglected to put on my swimsuit while still at the Wohnheim, and changing at the swimming area was an interesting challenge. There were no easily-accessible changing rooms and the nearest bathrooms that I knew of were nearly a mile down the road back toward the train station. However, there were plenty of trees and walls and buildings around, so I just had to be quick and creative about it. Unfortunately my 16x30" travel towel was of no use in this matter, so I borrowed a female friend and a full-sized towel and snuck off behind a tree. I had an interesting close call when another member of the group unwittingly wandered over, but crisis was averted and I was soon running down the dock into the water, safely and modestly covered. The water was cold!!! And this is coming from a girl who lives in Maine, so I know what cold water is. I've been swimming in the ocean in May and in snowmelt rivers in April, so I have felt cold water. This wasn't nearly THAT cold, but it was certainly chillier than expected. I half-heartedly paddled a few hundred yards away from shore but the ominous-looking clouds on the other side of the lake and the lack of willing company discouraged me from a true long-distance swim. So I contented myself with standing in the shallows and observing the multitudes of small fish which swam around me in circles, occasionally venturing close enough to brush me with a tail. I had my goggles, of course, and a few times I dove under and swam amongst the fish, which always kept just out of reach but didn't seem otherwise too bothered by my presence. Soon the rumbles of the promised thunderstorm reached our ears and we (I, at least - most people were shivering) reluctantly clambered out of the water and dried off. We trotted back to the train station rather more quickly than we had come and returned to the Wohnheim without getting wet, if barely. I then turned my attention to making supper, which was an improvised combination of instant potatoes and instant soup (but still pretty good ;]). I was surprisingly tired, so though I had grand ambitions of writing long emails and blogging and doing my homework, I ended up going to bed at 8 and planning to do it all in the morning when I would be fresher and more efficient.
I did end up getting up at 5 and getting a great deal done before class, almost at the expense of my punctuality. I posted my blog entry at 8:33 and rushed off to the train station - it takes a little more than 20 minutes to get from the Wohnheim to the Institute on a normal day and Wednesday was gloomy and rainy all day. The most interesting part of class was when our professor offered to buy us ballet and opera tickets and claimed that he could do so in about ten minutes - whoever had interest gave him 10€ for the ticket and in the middle of class, after setting us to begin a grammar exercise, he slipped out to buy the tickets. He tends to do that - disappear with little or no explanation in the middle of class, almost in the middle of a sentence - usually he comes back right away, because he just has copies to make or something. This time he said ten minutes, but he actually didn't return for FORTY - and by the time he did, class was nearly over so all he could do was give us our homework for the next day (I didn't really mind). After class I went to explore a store near the Institute that had caught my eye - it was called "Euroshop". Turns out it is just what it sounds like - the European equivalent of a dollar store. EVERYTHING is one Euro - and there's some pretty good stuff there! Not just because 1€ = $1.42, either. I'm sure I'll be back to that store many times this month. :) Then it was back to the Wohnheim, where I spent the rest of the day in frustrated attempts to call home - the weather being bad both here and in Maine, my Skype calls with Mom were nothing more than an exercise in frustration, and other friends whom I tried to contact weren't available. I eventually gave up and began researching activities in Munich that would potentially interest me, in hopes of not leaving this city feeling like I had wasted my time here or not seen all the things I wanted to see. The best discovery which followed from this exercise was that most museums in the city are quite inexpensive for students, and a few are even free! Now I have lots more ideas for adventures, and whether I can find companions with which to share my experiences or not, I will be sure to at least inform you well of the ups and downs.
Settling In
My first impressions of Germany:
- clean - amazingly so, for a city. There is NO litter. Anywhere.
- organized
- everyone follows the rules religiously - a couple of examples: when the crossing light is red, you don't cross the street. Even if there are NO cars coming and the light is about to turn green in a couple of seconds. Also, there are no gates in the train stations - if you wanted to get on the train without a ticket, you totally could. Although if you get caught doing it, the fine is 40€, so I don't suggest trying it. Even if I've only seen the police on the train once in five days.
- uncrowded (compared to St. Petersburg)
- less diverse than NYC or basically any other large American city, but more so than Russia
- friendly but businesslike - most storekeepers tolerate our mediocre German rather than trying out their English on us (especially since even if they switch to English, we insist on responding in German)
Monday was our first full day in Germany. We didn't have class but only an information session at the Institute that began at 10. I really like that on our first day they showed us where the institute was so there was no question (they didn't do that for PiP and Latalia and I had to go searching for it on our own). Since we all had group tickets until Wednesday, we met at 9:15 to all travel over together, grabbing breakfast along the way. I bought a cheese-covered roll-pastry at Müllers, a small bakery located in the train station closest to the Wohnheim, for 1,30€. Food here is surprisingly cheap, which is very good seeing as it will be my main expense.
Transportation in Germany is quite interesting and deserves a paragraph to itself. There is quite a system of interconnected S-Bahns (aboveground trains) and U-Bahns (underground trains, aka subways) throughout the city. Since we live on the last station in the city center, seven S-Bahn lines come through our station. They all take the same track through the city center and only diverge at the outskirts to travel to various places around Munich. This means that there is a train heading towards downtown approximately every 2 minutes, so you never have to worry about "missing" your train. Any of the trains heading to the city center will stop at the Institute station, so it hardly even matters which one you board. Our monthly pass allows us to travel an unlimited number of times on any S-Bahn, U-Bahn, bus, or tram in the two innermost "circles" of the city, which is basically anywhere we would want to go for museums, parks, concerts, etc. On the way back to the Wohnheim at night there is only one of the eight S-Bahn lines which diverges before our stop, so we have to be a tad more watchful, but in general the public transportation around the city is absolutely stellar and I've not yet had a problem with it. Everything is exceedingly well-marked in true German style and there are clear maps of the immediate neighborhood, city, and region in every station. Although I will to some degree miss the wild adventure of taking a marshrutka through St. Petersburg, hoping that it is traveling in the direction that I want to go in, I am mostly very glad for the high level of organization. Another thing that makes Germany stand out from both the US and Russia is their attitude on bikes. They are obsessed with them over here, and bikers are thus given a much higher priority. Every sidewalk in the city consists of two lanes of bike traffic as well as places for pedestrian traffic, but if there is not enough room, the bikes take priority. And all of the Germans know not to walk in the bike lanes, because they'll just ring their bells angrily at you and then run you over. There are ample spaces for locking up bikes at the train stations and bikes are even allowed on the S-Bahn, with special places on each car to put them out of the way. I think I'm in biker heaven. Of course, one of my first questions to our German assistants (who are serving their civil service requirement with the Goethe Institute as opposed to a military service requirement, one of which is required for every young person in Germany) was "where in Munich can I buy a used bike?" I haven't seen him again to ask whether he found a good place (he answered that he knew there were shops where that was possible but would have to research exactly where in the city they are located), and I am debating whether it is worth buying a bike here that I would then have to transport on the train to Clausthal or whether I would be better off waiting until I got there to purchase one (the thought of trying to transport a bike along with two heavy suitcases and a backpack makes me shiver).
Getting back to Monday, after the information session (which only lasted an hour or so), in which we learned about the course organization as well as received our internet usernames and passwords, we were let free until 2pm. I quickly joined the group that was going shopping with the intention to end up back at the Wohnheim, and we traveled first to DM (a chain much like Rite-Aid or CVS) for shower supplies, then to a grocery store (Tengelmann) on the way home, which is when it really hit home how inexpensive groceries are here. I was able to buy a loaf of bread, butter, cheese, yogurt, milk, cereal, chicken, pasta, instant potatoes, applesauce, spaghetti sauce, 5 apples, and some instant soup mixes (much like Raman) for only 20€! Granted, I sought the cheapest items and my shopping cart didn't display the most balanced menu, but it was still a lot for what I paid for. Rushing back to the dorm, we quickly connected our computers to the internet and sent off hurried emails to parents assuring them of our safe arrival (or in my case, a terse Facebook status update to kill as many birds with one stone as possible) before heading off to the Olympic park to meet the group. The big attraction that we were all gathering to see was the Olympic tower, by far the tallest building in Munich, which provided an excellent opportunity to view the entire city (and yes, take lots of pictures). The park itself is quite interesting, however; it has several hills, but none of them are natural: they were formed from the rubble of Munich directly following WWII, then covered in dirt and planted to create a park. This sort of enormous reconstruction project happened all over just after the war as many German cities were almost completely destroyed by bombs.
Once we were all at the top of the Olympic tower, the grad students Hannes and Mareike unveiled their treat - a scavenger hunt (Schnitzeljagd) about Munich! We broke up into groups of five and received a paper with several questions on it, which we were charged to answer before 6 when we should all meet at a particular ice cream store which they pointed out on a map. My group consisted of four other people from my German 102-5 class: Dan H, Olivia, Claudia, and Nathan, so I knew we would have a great deal of fun no matter what the outcome. One of the challenges was to take 10€ given to us by Professor Rankin and spend it in the most creative way. Earlier I had seen some paddleboats on the lake and suddenly I was struck with an idea: why not spend our money on renting a paddleboat and paddling around the lake? Finding this to be the best idea anyone had, we promptly followed through with it. One of the boats was shaped like a giant swan, so of course that was the one I wanted to take. Olivia and I clambered into the swan and Claudia and the boys in the other, and we cheerfully paddled around the lake for a half-hour. The most exciting part came when we tried to follow the other boat (which was just a normal paddleboat) under a low bridge and found out that the head of the swan was too tall to allow this - we almost got stuck until Claudia suggested "lean forward" and the shift in weight tipped the boat forward so that the head was lower. (Who's the engineer, here?) The rest of the hunt involved dashing around Munich on the sophisticated U-Bahn and S-Bahn network to various sights in the city to take pictures and gather souvenirs. Unfortunately we didn't make it to the ice cream shop in time, but we had a blast so it didn't really matter to us.
We got back to the Wohnheim at about 6:30, and I promptly made myself a scrumptious supper of tortellini before hopping on Skype to talk to my sister Emily for her birthday (this is the second year in a row that I have been overseas on her birthday). Before I knew it, the clock read 11pm and I was more than ready for bed, especially since the next day marked the first day of classes.
We got back to the Wohnheim at about 6:30, and I promptly made myself a scrumptious supper of tortellini before hopping on Skype to talk to my sister Emily for her birthday (this is the second year in a row that I have been overseas on her birthday). Before I knew it, the clock read 11pm and I was more than ready for bed, especially since the next day marked the first day of classes.
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